Poly(lactic acid) (PLA), the fi rst melt-processable synthetic fi bre produced from annually renewable resources, combines ecological advantages with excellent performance in textiles. PLA successfully bridges the gap between synthetic and natural fi bres and fi nds a wide range of uses, from medical and pharmaceutical applications to environmentally benign fi lm and fi bres for packaging, houseware, and clothing. Ease of melt processing, unique property spectrum, renewable source origin, and ease of composting and recycling at the end of its useful life has led to PLA fi bres fi nding growing interest and acceptance over a range of commercial textile sectors. Our review of poly(lactic acid) (PLA) fi bre is divided into two parts. Part I of this review gives information about production, properties, performance, environmental impact, and enduse applications of PLA fi bres. The aim of Part II is to review the wet processing (pretreatment, dyeing, clearing, subsequent fi nishing treatments, washing, etc.) of PLA fi bre and its effects on the fi bre. These were accomplished through a broad literature survey, including recent research and development in the area.
A short study has been conducted to examine the efficiency of different alkaline reduction‐clearing conditions on Ingeo [poly(lactic acid)] fibres, dyed with disperse dyes. The results indicate that the preferred conditions are 15 min at 60 °C in the presence of 2 g/l sodium carbonate and 2 g/l ‘hydros’, conditions which avoid any significant change of shade by colour loss and lead to optimised wash fastness.
Poly(lactic acid) (PLA) is an aliphatic polyester which can be derived from 100% renewable resources. PLA fi bres can be dyed with disperse dyes, just like PET fi bres, although a modifi ed wet processing processes are employed. A variety of wet processing applications (pretreatment, dyeing, clearing, and subsequent fi nishing treatments) that imparts the greatest chemical and physical effect on the PLA fi bres necessitate major attention. Part II of this review reviews the wet processing (pretreatment, dyeing, clearing, subsequent fi nishing treatments, washing etc.) of PLA fi bre and its effects on the fi bre. This was accomplished through a broad literature survey including recent research and development in the area.Poly(lactic acid) (PLA), the fi rst melt-processable natural-based synthetic fi bre produced from annually renewable resources [1,2], combines ecological advantages with excellent performance in textiles. It is an aliphatic polyester which can be derived from 100% renewable resources such as corn [3] (Fig. 1). The processability of PLA is equivalent to that of petroleum-based synthetic materials, where PLA polymer uses conventional polyester type fi bre melt spinning processes. PLA fi bres use conventional spinning machinery. PLA fabrics also use conventional dyeing and fi nishing machinery.PLA fi bres can be dyed with disperse dyes, just like PET fi bres, although modifi ed wet processing processes are employed. A variety of wet processing applications that imparts the greatest chemical and physical effect on PLA fi bres necessitate major attention. A better understanding of PLA fi bre and the possible effects of different wet processing treatments during production and after-care procedures during usage by the consumer is vital. Finding the best conditions and methods for wet processing and after-care applications for PLA-based textile products will increase the performance of this naturalbased melt-spinnable PLA fi bre. The aim of Part II of this review paper is to review the wet processing (pretreatment, dyeing, clearing, subsequent fi nishing treatments, washing etc.) of PLA fi bre and its effects on the fi bre. Poly(lactic acid) (PLA) fi bre and its production, properties, performance, environmental impact, and end-use applications were reviewed and summarized in the fi rst part of this review. Wet Processing of PLA fi bresPLA shows many properties that are similar to those of other synthetic fi bres. PLA fi bres can be manufactured by bulk dyeing before spinning using a polymer concentrate of the same dyes as for PET fi bres [4]. However, PLA requires modifi ed dyeing and fi nishing techniques to maximize its benefi ts. It can be dyed with disperse dyes, just like PET fi bres, under high temperature and pressure although a modifi ed dyeing method is employed since PLA has low affi nity to conventional watersoluble dyes [5]. Conventional processes and fi nishing technologies can be used for processing PLA fabrics [6]. The processing temperatures conventionally used for PET need to be red...
The effect of flame retardant and oil/water repellent finishes on the performance and colour of poly(lactic acid) fabrics was examined, and the influence of sequential and combined finishing applications was determined. A range of drying and curing application conditions were evaluated for imparting a durable flame-retardant effect (based on a mixture of cyclic phosphonate esters) to the poly(lactic acid) fabrics. The best application conditions for applying the flame retardent with a fluorochemical and softener/lubricant, without causing significant colour change and deterioration in handle properties, was drying by 110°C followed by thermofixation at 135°C for 90 s. The flame-retardant performance of the poly(lactic acid) fabrics was found to be durable even after 50 washing cycles and the application of three different finishing chemicals (flame retardant, fluorochemical and softener/lubricant) in the same bath did not adversely affect either theflame-retardant performance or colour change of the poly(lactic acid) fabrics. Combined bath applications were preferred over separate bath applications due to the lower colour change and it was also found that the softener/lubricant used in this study had a deleterious effect on oil repellency recovery performance after hot pressing.
This paper addresses the relative effects of softeners having different properties and their method of application (exhaust vs pad) on the colour fastness of poly(lactic acid) fabrics dyed with a range of disperse dyes with different levels of hydrophobicity. A comparison was made with a correspondingly finished polyethylene terephthalate fabric. Possible relationships between the levels of hydrophilicity ⁄ hydrophobicity of the dye, and softener, and the colour fastness were explored. Finally, the amount of dye thermally migrated into the finish on the softened poly(lactic acid) and polyethylene terephthalate fabrics was examined in comparison with their colour fastness. Softened poly(lactic acid) fabrics dyed with CI Disperse Red 167.1 exhibited more thermal migration, and hence lower colour fastness, than the corresponding polyethylene terephthalate fabrics. Conversely, softened poly(lactic acid) fabrics dyed with Dianix Deep Red SF exhibited less thermal migration, and hence better colour fastness, than the corresponding polyethylene terephthalate fabrics. Overall, no clear relationship was found between the hydrophobic nature of the disperse dye and the hydrophobic character of the softener on the colour fastness.
This study investigates the influence of different finishing conditions on the amount of thermal migration and the wet fastness properties of selected red disperse dyes on polylactic acid fabrics. A comparison was made with a correspondingly finished polyethyleneterephthalate fabric, with a specific objective being to identify the conditions that would give optimum wet fastness to the polylactic acid fabric. A greater thermal migration of dye was observed on the polylactic acid compared with polyethyleneterephthalate fabric under the same heat treatment conditions, resulting in a lower level of wet fastness. The lowering in wet fastness of dyed polylactic acid fabric on processing occurs mainly as a result of thermal migration of disperse dyes during the drying stage at 110 °C.
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