Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.

Ammodaucus leucotrichus is a medicinal plant commonly used in Algeria by the indigenous populations, especially due to its therapeutic effects. In this context, the aim of the present study was to chemically characterize the essential oil of A. leucotrichus fruits (EOALF) growing in Algerian Sahara, and to evaluate its bioactive properties (antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory). Considering the interest of the cosmetic industry for natural ingredients, and taking into account the obtained biological properties, the essential oil was also evaluated by incorporation in a base cosmetic (cream). The essential oil was extracted with a yield of 2.58 ± 0.17%, being perilla aldehyde identified as the main component, accounting for 85.6% of the total composition. Concerning the tested bioactivities, EOALF presented antioxidant potential, a strong anti-inflammatory activity, and was effective against the tested microbial strains (Staphylococcus aureus, Eschericia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa), being S. aureus the most sensitive bacteria. After incorporation in a base cosmetic, the developed formulation was able to preserve the EOALF bioactivities along 28 days under storage. The obtained results, with relevance for the strong-anti-inflammatory activity, pointed out the interest to exploit this essential oil as a cosmeceutical ingredient in the cosmetic industry.

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