Cosmetics, like any product containing water and organic/inorganic compounds, require preservation against microbial contamination to guarantee consumer’s safety and to increase their shelf-life. The microbiological safety has as main goal of consumer protection against potentially pathogenic microorganisms, together with the product’s preservation resulting from biological and physicochemical deterioration. This is ensured by chemical, physical, or physicochemical strategies. The most common strategy is based on the application of antimicrobial agents, either by using synthetic or natural compounds, or even multifunctional ingredients. Current validation of a preservation system follow the application of good manufacturing practices (GMPs), the control of the raw material, and the verification of the preservative effect by suitable methodologies, including the challenge test. Among the preservatives described in the positive lists of regulations, there are parabens, isothiasolinone, organic acids, formaldehyde releasers, triclosan, and chlorhexidine. These chemical agents have different mechanisms of antimicrobial action, depending on their chemical structure and functional group’s reactivity. Preservatives act on several cell targets; however, they might present toxic effects to the consumer. Indeed, their use at high concentrations is more effective from the preservation viewpoint being, however, toxic for the consumer, whereas at low concentrations microbial resistance can develop.

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Polyurethane-urea microcapsules with limonene oil as the active agent were produced by interfacial polymerization, and their suitability for textile applications was studied. Experimental conditions for the textile substrates impregnation were based on industrial requirements and set up at laboratory scale using a minifoulard. The success of the polymerization reaction leading to the formation of the polyurethane-urea shell was checked by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Particle size distributions and morphology of the microcapsules were studied using a particle size analyzer (Coulter LS230), optical microscopy, and scanning electron microscopy. The effectiveness of the textiles impregnation and the durability of the impregnation effect were evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and by headspace/GC/FID. Under the present research, a product was developed and its performance, in regard to industrial requirements, was successfully tested.

Fragrant and antimicrobial properties were conferred to cotton fabrics following microencapsulation using green materials. Limonene and vanillin microcapsules were produced by complex coacervation using chitosan/gum Arabic as shell materials and tannic acid as hardening agent. The effect of two emulsifiers; Span 85 and polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), on the encapsulation efficiency (EE%), microcapsule's size and morphology, and cumulative release profiles was studied. The mean diameter of the produced microcapsules ranged between 10.4 and 39.0 μm, whereas EE% was found to be between 90.4% and 100%. The use of Span 85 resulted in mononuclear morphology while PGPR gave rise to polynuclear structures, regardless of the core material (vanillin or limonene). The obtained microcapsules demonstrated a sustained release pattern; namely the total cumulative release of the active agents after 7 days at 37 ± 1°C was 75%, 52% and 19.4% for the polynuclear limonene microcapsules, the mononuclear limonene microcapsules and the polynuclear vanillin microcapsules, respectively. Grafting of the produced microcapsules onto cotton fabrics through an esterification reaction using citric acid as a nontoxic cross-linker followed by thermofixation and curing, was confirmed by SEM and FTIR spectroscopy. Standard antibacterial assays conducted on both microcapsules alone and impregnated onto the fabrics indicated a sustained antibacterial activity.

Rubus ulmifolius Schott (Rosaceae), known as wild blackberry, is a perennial shrub found in wild and cultivated habitats in Europe, Asia and North Africa. Traditionally, it is used for homemade remedies because of its medicinal properties, including antioxidant activity. In the present work, phenolic extracts of R. ulmifolius flower buds obtained by decoction and hydroalcoholic extraction were chemically and biologically characterized. Several phenolic compounds were identified in both decoction and hydroalcoholic extracts of flowers, ellagitannin derivatives being the most abundant ones, namely the sanguiin H-10 isomer and lambertianin. Additionally, comparing with the decoction form, the hydroalcoholic extract presented both higher phenolic content and antioxidant activity. The hydroalcoholic extract was thereafter microencapsulated in an alginate-based matrix and incorporated into a yogurt to achieve antioxidant benefits. In what concerns the performed incorporation tests, the obtained results pointed out that, among the tested samples, the yoghurt containing the microencapsulated extract presented a slightly higher antioxidant activity, and that both forms (free and microencapsulated extracts) gave rise to products with higher activity than the control. In conclusion, this study demonstrated the antioxidant potential of the R. ulmifolius hydroalcoholic extract and the effectiveness of the microencapsulation technique used for its preservation, thus opening new prospects for the exploitation of these natural phenolic extracts in food applications.

The present work explores the antioxidant potential of Helichrysum stoechas (L.) Moench phenolic compounds for cosmetic applications involving the following steps: chemical characterization, microencapsulation and incorporation into a moisturizer.Eighteen different phenolic compounds were identified in flowering aerial parts (decoction and hydroalcoholic extract), being 3,5-O-dicaffeoylquinic acid and myricetin O-acetylhexoside the most abundant phenolic acid and flavonoid, respectively.Comparatively to the decoction form, the hydroalcoholic extract presented both higher antioxidant activity and higher phenolic content, being its lyophilized form chosen to

Polyurethanes and polyurethane-ureas, particularly their water-based dispersions, have gained relevance as an extremely versatile area based on environmentally friendly approaches. The evolution of their synthesis methods, and the nature of the reactants (or compounds involved in the process) towards increasingly sustainable pathways, has positioned these dispersions as a relevant and essential product for diverse application frameworks. Therefore, in this work, it is intended to show the progress in the field of polyurethane and polyurethane-urea dispersions over decades, since their initial synthesis approaches. Thus, the review covers from the basic concepts of polyurethane chemistry to the evolution of the dispersion’s preparation strategies. Moreover, an analysis of the recent trends of using renewable reactants and enhanced green strategies, including the current legislation, directed to limit the toxicity and potentiate the sustainability of dispersions, is described. The review also highlights the strengths of the dispersions added with diverse renewable additives, namely, cellulose, starch or chitosan, providing some noteworthy results. Similarly, dispersion’s potential to be processed by diverse methods is shown, evidencing, with different examples, their suitability in a variety of scenarios, outstanding their versatility even for high requirement applications.

A B S T R A C TThe consumption of foods functionalized with spirulina might have positive health effects. However, spirulinabased food products are usually associated with unpleasant flavor and odor, and can present non-homogeneous appearance, impairing consumers' acceptance. Moreover, it is important to assure bioactivity maintenance. To develop a novel food ingredient, spirulina was chemically characterized, and spray-dried using two encapsulating materials: i) maltodextrin and ii) maltodextrin crosslinked with citric acid. Thereafter, free and encapsulated spirulina were evaluated for their bioactive properties. Microencapsulated spirulina presented higher thermal stability than the base materials, while showing better anti-inflammatory activity without exerting cytotoxicity. Free and encapsulated spirulina were further added to yogurts to validate their suitability as functionalizing agents. Yogurts added with encapsulated spirulina presented a more homogeneous appearance, and the best solution was spirulina encapsulated in maltodextrin crosslinked with citric acid, considering the nutritional profile, attractive color, and improved antioxidant activity throughout storage time.