Bilberry represents a valuable source of antioxidant substances responsible for its application for the treatment of different conditions (such as inflammation, cardiovascular disease, cancer, diabetes, and different age-related diseases) associated with increased oxidative stress. As oxidative stress might cause skin impairments, we aim to evaluate a topical preparation containing bilberry leaves extract and bilberry seeds oil, obtained as a byproduct of the food industry. To obtain the extracts, the conventional maceration technique for leaves, and supercritical carbon dioxide extraction for seeds were employed. The chemical profile of both actives was achieved by HPLC and GC methods, revealing the presence of phenolic acids (chlorogenic being the most abundant), flavonoids (isoquercetin in the highest amount), and resveratrol in leaves extract, while in seeds oil the essential ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids were determined in favorable ratio, almost being 1. Antioxidant potential of the wild bilberry extract and seed oil was evaluated using in vitro DPPH and FRAP assays. Finally, effects of the oil-in-water creams with mentioned wild bilberry isolates on the skin were investigated in an in vivo study conducted on healthy human volunteers, revealing the significant beneficial effects when topically applied.

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Background In the still ongoing COVID‐19 pandemic, one of the main prevention strategy remain to be the use of protective face masks. Changes in skin characteristics and dermatological problems related to wearing different types of masks have been observed. The aim of this study was to compare the short‐term effects of cotton versus medical masks on skin biophysical parameters in general population. Materials and methods Twenty‐eight human volunteers were enrolled and divided in cotton mask and medical mask wearing groups. We measured four skin biophysical parameters: trans‐epidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), skin pH, and erythema index (EI) before and 3 h after wearing masks on both uncovered and mask‐wearing face area. Results TEWL increased after 3 h on exposed skin in cotton mask group and slightly decreased in medical mask group There was an increase in SCH after 3 h of wearing protective face masks in both groups. pH of the covered skin slightly decreased while EI increased after 3 h in both groups; changes were not statistically significant. Parameters did not change significantly on uncovered skin. Conclusion There were no differences between the influence of cotton versus medical protective masks on the skin of healthy volunteers in our study. Both types of masks could be recommended for short‐time protection in individuals with healthy skin during COVID‐19 pandemic.

Introduction. Texture profile analysis, as the most popular method of texture analysis today, is used for relating the mechanical characteristics of the samples to their sensory characteristics. Thickeners have an important influence on the mechanical properties of semi-solid products, and thus on the physical stability of creams. Choosing the right one often requires more skill than knowledge. Aims. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of thickeners-natural (xanthan gum) as well as naturally modified polymers (hydroxyethylcellulose, c) at the concentration of 1% w/w on the textural properties of oil-in-water emulsions. Results and Discussion. The following parameters of the tested emulsions were determined: adhesiveness, cohesiveness, and hardness. All tested creams reached higher adhesiveness values at the end of the study compared to the originally measured values. However, the presence of thickeners did not increase the stickiness of the formulations since the adhesiveness of the tested samples did not differ much compared to the control sample. Almost similar values of cohesiveness were measured for all samples compared to the initial values. The values of hardness showed that the deformation after two compression cycles did not disrupt the structure and that all preparations were of similar spreadability. Conclusion. The results obtained by texture analysis could be used in the formulation of a cosmetic product with predefined sensory characteristics. Also, they could help in finding an adequate combination and concentration of thickeners for their application in the formulation. Further research should be directed towards the application of more different thickeners and different ranges of their concentrations in the formulation.

Introduction. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of the carbomer concentration (used as the gelling agent, in the range 0.5 - 2.0%) on textural and sensory characteristics of gels with 3% panthenol using sensory analysis as subjective and texture analysis as an objective assessment method. An active substance in the gels was panthenol, which also acted as a neutralizing agent of the carbomer. Participants and methods. Twenty female panelists, aged between 20 and 36, participated in the sensory study and had to fulfill a questionnaire regarding product attributes before, during and after application on the skin. Texture analysis was performed on CT3 Texture Analyzer, after each week for a month, and the following parameters were calculated: hardness cycle 1, hardness cycle 2, cohesiveness, adhesiveness, resilience and springiness. Results. The results showed that gels were stable over time and the structure of the gels was preserved regardless of compression. An increase in hardness and resilience was followed by an increase in the concentration of carbomer, while adhesiveness, cohesiveness and springiness did not differ much among different gels. The same trend was noticed when gels were compared during time. Sensory analysis confirmed findings of texture analysis and showed that with the increment of carbomer concentration, stickiness and density also enhanced, while absorption rate and spreadability decreased. Gel with 1% carbomer was chosen by the majority of panelists as favorite and as a gel they would regularly use. Conclusion. The methods of textural and sensory analysis represent valuable approaches in drug/cosmetic product design because they offer insight in the compliance of patients/consumers.