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This work concerns the study of colors and dyes identified on archaeological textiles from the Atacama Desert. The different garments and ornaments come from the excavation of two important pre-Columbian cemeteries of the Tarapacá region: Tarapacá-40 attributed to the Formative period (1100 BC–660 AD) and Pica-8 to the Late Intermediate period (900–1450 AD). For the first time, a multi-analytical approach with non-invasive techniques using FORS and SERS was applied on samples of less than 2 cm of length for physicochemical characterization of the raw materials and the dyes employed in the textile production of northern Chile. The fibers are from animal origin. Blue, green, and yellow are identified as indigo, but we cannot discard a mixture with other dyes to vary hue and shade; while carminic acid and alizarin—to a lesser extent—are found on red, orange, and brown samples. This research provides new elements for the discussion about the textile technology developed in this desertic region, its changes, and continuities along the history. Our results are compared to recent findings on neighboring regions from South-Central Andes, to improve the current knowledge and discuss the existence of dyeing textile cultural traditions.

In pre‐Hispanic Mesoamerica, pigments and dyes were used in the elaboration of a large variety of colored objects. Obtaining information regarding the objects' material composition is useful in restoration and preservation processes, as well as for recovering knowledge of its production technology and the context and history of the object. Yellow colors have been obtained from a large variety of Mexican natural resources. Although mineral yellow pigments, such as orpiment and oxides, are relatively easy to identify by nondestructive and noninvasive techniques (X‐ray fluorescence, Raman spectroscopy, fiber optics reflectance spectroscopy, and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy), organic yellow colorants are difficult to analyze by these techniques. Therefore, most works dealing with the identification of yellow dyes use destructive methods such as liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry. The aim of this work is to elaborate a methodology based on Raman spectroscopy and surface‐enhanced Raman spectroscopy for the study of yellow colorants used in pre‐Hispanic and colonial Mexico, in order to aid in their identification by spectroscopic techniques. The yellow colorants selected for this work were extracted from local plants: zacatlaxcalli (Cuscuta tinctoria), old fustic (Maclura tinctoria), weld (Reseda luteola), marigold (Tagetes erecta), and xochipalli (Cosmos sulphureus).

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