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Bicelles emerge as promising membrane models, and because of their attractive combination of lipid composition, small size and morphological versatility, they become new targets in skin research. Bicelles are able to modify skin biophysical parameters and modulate the skin's barrier function, acting to enhance drug penetration. Because of their nanostructured assemblies, bicelles have the ability to penetrate through the narrow intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum of the skin to reinforce its lipid lamellae. The bicelle structure also allows for the incorporation of different molecules that can be carried through the skin layers. All of these characteristics can be modulated by varying the lipid composition and experimental conditions. The remarkable versatility of bicelles is their most important characteristic, which makes their use possible in various fields. This system represents a platform for dermal applications. In this review, an overview of the main properties of bicelles and their effects on the skin are presented.

Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy was applied to study the effects of the bicelles formed by dimyristoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DMPC) and dihexanoyl-glycero-phosphocholine (DHPC) in porcine stratum corneum (SC) in vitro. A comparison of skin samples treated and untreated with bicelles at different temperatures was carried out. The analysis of variations after treatment in the position of the symmetric CH2 stretching, CH2 scissoring, and CH2 rocking vibrations reported important information about the effect of bicelles on the skin. Bicellar systems caused a phase transition from the gel or solid state to the liquid crystalline state in the lipid conformation of SC, reflecting the major order-disorder transition from hexagonally packed to disordered chains. Grazing incidence small and wide X-ray scattering (GISAXS and GIWAXS) techniques confirmed this effect of bicelles on the SC. These results are probably related to with the permeabilizing effect previously described for the DMPC/DHPC bicelles.

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The effect of bicelles formed by dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC)/dihexanoylphosphatidylcholine (DHPC) on stratum corneum (SC) lipids was studied by attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy at different temperatures. Analysis of the lipid organization in terms of chain conformational order and lateral packing shows that the use of bicelles hampers the fluidification of SC lipids with temperature and leads to a lateral packing corresponding to a stable hexagonal phase. Grazing incidence small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering (GISAXS and GIWAXS) techniques confirm these results and give evidence of higher lamellar order after treatment with these bicelles. Additionally, the effects of DPPC/DHPC and dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC)/DHPC bicelles at different SC depths were compared. The combination of ATR-FTIR spectroscopy and the tape-stripping method was very useful for this purpose.