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This research was designed to fill the void in understanding how art-related retailers define and achieve success. A two-phase data collection process was implemented. Preliminary personal interviews were conducted with 12 craft retailers followed by a mailed survey to 1000 craft retailers in nine southeastern U.S. states. Factor analysis was employed to reduce the number of items for defining success. Cluster analysis followed to develop empirical groupings of craft retail businesses based on the success factor scores, of which four different groups were identified. Multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) and analysis of variance (ANOVA) were used to compare retail clusters related to business strategy variables of competitive strategies, product assortment, pricing, and distribution strategies, and networking activities. Significant differences were found in the craft retailers' business strategies used to achieve success. Craft retail entrepreneurs were found to define success with both traditional criteria such as profit and growth and also with intrinsic factors such as personal satisfaction and the opportunity to elevate the craft tradition. Successful small craft retail firms offered more focused product assortments of specialized craft products, implemented more differentiated strategies of stocking unique crafts in their assortments, as well as offering unique services to educate consumers about crafts, craft artisans, and a region's culture. Craft retailers who reported greater success did not engage in competitive pricing. Collaborative strategies included networking among family, friends, and business peers.Dr. Paige is assistant professor of marketing at Lander University in Greenwood, South Carolina. Her research focuses on cultural product marketing, small business success strategies, and tourism marketing with an international scope that includes a focus on indigenous handmade crafts from Thailand and Russia. Dr. Paige's teaching interests include international marketing, small business stratgy, and advertising and promotion.Dr. Littrell is professor of textiles and clothing at Iowa State University in Ames. Her research focuses on artisan enterprise sustainability and tourism marketing with an international focus that includes native textile and apparel products from India and Mexico. Her teaching interests include international small textile and apparel enterprises and the cultural aspects of textiles and apparel. 314JOURNAL OF SMALL BUSINESS MANAGEMENT

The purpose of this research was to a) generate a composite list of apparel attributes, b) arrange the attributes in conceptual categories and dimensional levels, and c) examine the attributes in ways that are useful to different types of retailers. Five focus group interviews were conducted with 31 female consumers in four midwestern towns. The focus groups were designed in a three part format to parallel some of the evaluation processes in different types of retail settings. Four conceptual themes and 79 attributes emerged based on the content of the data. The themes were physical appearance, physical performance, expressive, and extrinsic. Themes varied in the unidimensional and multidimensional nature of their attributes. Saliency of the attributes varied in the three parts of discussion which has implications for different types of retailers. Participants were concerned about physical appearance and expressive response when viewing catalog photographs and narrative copy. Concern heightened for physical appearance and diminished for expressive attributes when actual garments were examined. Recommendations and hypotheses for future research are provided.

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PurposeThis study focused on two research questions: How do generational cohorts of fair trade consumers differ in their product attitudes and behaviors, retail preferences, shopping orientations, and socio‐political attitudes? How do factors influencing purchase intentions for fair trade apparel differ among generational cohorts?Design/methodology/approachData from 1,055 current customers of four North American fair trade businesses were collected via mail survey and store‐intercept. Respondents included generation X (ages 29‐40, n=200), baby boomer (ages 41‐59, n=589), and swing (ages 60‐75, n=266) generations.FindingsResults revealed that baby boomers and swing respondents differed from Generation X participants in their greater focus on qualities of apparel comfort, value, and quality; preference for authentic products and ethnic attire; and local activism behavior. In contrast, they exhibited more limited interest in wearing fashionable attire. All respondents placed high importance on fair trade philosophy centered on wages, workplace, and the environment. For all generational cohorts, their propensity toward wearing ethnic attire was the strongest influence on future intentions to purchase fair trade clothing.Research limitations/implicationsFor fair trade researchers, taking generational cohorts into consideration is recommended for assisting fair trade business persons in reaching their goal of market expansion to younger consumers.Practical limitations/implicationsCoupling significantly expanded information on ethnicity of designs, colors, production methods, or garments styles, along with current promotion of fair trade practices, was suggested for expanding purchases among consumers in both the generation X and swing cohorts. Baby boomer participants also valued pragmatic clothing details related to comfort, value, and quality.Originality/valueThis research provided support for use of generational cohorts in understanding consumer behavior. Regression analysis across the total sample led to different results as compared to when each generational cohort was examined individually.