Exposure to harsh environmental conditions, such as cold and dry climate and chemicals can have an abrasive effect on skin. Skin care products containing ingredients that avert these noxious effects by reinforcement of the barrier function can be tested using in vivo models. The objective is to use in vivo models to assess the efficacy of emollients in protecting skin against climatic and chemical insults. A first model used a stream of cooled air to mimic cold wind. A second used sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) under patch as chemical aggressor. In the model with simulated wind exposure, the untreated exposed area had a significant decrease in hydration. In contrast, application of an emollient caused a significant increase in hydration that was maintained after wind exposure. In the second model with SLS exposure, application of a barrier cream before SLS patch significantly reduced the dehydrating effect of SLS with a significant difference in variation between both areas. Application of the cream reduced TEWL, indicative of a physical reinforcement of the skin barrier. The two presented test methods, done under standardized conditions, can be used for evaluation of protective effect of emollient, by reinforcing the barrier function against experimentally induced skin dehydration.
The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy of the combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid applied topically on photodamaged skin. Forty female volunteers were enrolled in a double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled clinical study. A cream containing retinol, lactose and glycolic acid was applied on one side of the face and a placebo cream on the other side, twice daily for 12 weeks. Skin photoageing signs were assessed clinically, whereas skin microrelief and moisturization were measured instrumentally. Both the clinical assessment and the objective instrumental measurements revealed that the active-treated side was significantly improved at the end of the study compared with baseline and control-treated side. In conclusion, our results demonstrate that topical application of a combination of retinol, lactose and glycolic acid has significantly improved the appearance of photodamaged skin.
Facial sagging is a major aging change that affects the overall shape of the face. Sagging can negatively impact self-perception and consequently quality of life. In order to fight against this aging sign, we developed a combination of three active ingredients: Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine (THPE), Ononis Spinosa extract and Glycerin. In a clinical study, we assessed the efficacy of this association on facial sagging and wrinkles, with a special focus on immediate and lasting effects. Thirty-nine women applied the tested product daily during an eight-week treatment period. Clinical grading by experts and a new, easy to operate, 2-D imaging method were performed at different time points. The 2-D imaging method measured the upper eyelid lifting effect. The results showed an immediate and significant improvement in sagging and wrinkle parameters; these benefits were still observed seven hours after the first application. Results also showed a significant long-term improvement. The lifting effect calculated from the 2-D pictures was 1.08 mm immediately after application; the same method showed a 1.80 mm lifting effect following the eight-week treatment period. These results suggest that a skin care product combining THPE, Ononis Spinosa and Glycerin properties may be used to reduce sagging as well as wrinkles with both immediate and long term benefits.
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