This study aimed to produce and characterize an oil in water (O/W) nanoemulsion containing Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill hydroglycolic extract, as well as evaluate its preliminary and accelerated thermal stability and moisturizing efficacy. The formulations containing 0.5% of xanthan gum (FX) and 0.5% of xanthan gum and 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica MILL extract (FXE) were white, homogeneus and fluid in aspect. Both formulations were stable during preliminary and accelerated stability tests. FX and FXE presented a pH compatible to skin pH (4.5–6.0); droplet size varying from 92.2 to 233.6 nm; a polydispersion index (PDI) around 0.200 and a zeta potential from −26.71 to −47.01 mV. FXE was able to increase the water content of the stratum corneum for 5 h after application on the forearm. The O/W nanoemulsions containing 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract presented suitable stability for at least for 60 days. Besides, this formulation was able to increase the water content of stratum corneum, showing its moisturizing efficacy.

RESUMO:O cerrado brasileiro é um bioma detentor de grande diversidade biológica. No entanto, são escassas as pesquisas de espécies vegetais, especialmente do cerrado mato-grossense, com potencial para serem utilizadas como filtros solares naturais. O objetivo desta pesquisa foi estudar o potencial fotoprotetor de espécies de diferentes famílias (Apocynaceae, Lythraceae, Oxalidaceae) do cerrado da região do Rio Manso, Chapada dos Guimarães -MT. A absorbância dos extratos etanólicos secos foram medidas em diferentes concentrações entre os comprimentos de onda de 260 a 400nm para verificar a absorção nas regiões ultravioleta A e B (UVA e UVB). As plantas que apresentaram absorbância na região estudada foram submetidas a uma análise fitoquímica qualitativa preliminar para determinar a presença de polifenóis e alcalóides, constituintes característicos de plantas que absorvem a radiação UV. Os extratos etanólicos secos que apresentaram absorção em UVB foram submetidos ao teste de determinação in vitro do Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) desenvolvido por Mansur. M. Velame apresentou absorção na região UVB com absorbância máxima em 318nm, enquanto que a L. pacari e O. hirsutissima apresentaram absorbância na região UVA. Na concentração utilizada e padronizada, nenhuma das espécies apresentou FPS ≥2, sendo assim não podem ser consideradas plantas com potencial fotoprotetor.Unitermos: Apocynaceae, atividade fotoprotetora, Cerrado de Mato Grosso, fator de proteção solar in vitro, Lythraceae, Oxalidaceae.ABSTRACT: "In vitro sunscreen activity evaluation of plants extracts from Mato Grosso cerrado". The Brazilian savanna is a holding biome of large biological diversity. However, the researches of plants species are scarce, especially at the Mato Grosso´s savanna; which have potential to be used as natural sunscreen. The objective of this research was to study the photoprotector potential of several species (Apocynaceae, Lythraceae, Oxalidaceae) from the savanna´s region at the Manso River, Chapada dos Guimarães -MT. The absorbance of dry ethanolic extracts were measured in different concentrations, between waves from 260nm until 400 nm in length. Just to check the absorption in the A and B ultraviolet regions (UVA and UVB). The plants that presented absorbance by the studied area were submitted to a preliminary qualitative phytochemical analysis to determine if there are polyphenols and alkaloids inside, because they are typical constituents of plants that absorber the UV radiation. The dry ethanolic extracts, that presented absorption in UVB, were submitted to a in vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF) determination test, developed by Mansur. M.velame presented absorption in the UVB region with maximal absorbance at 318 nm, while L. pacari and O. hirsutissima presented absorbance in the UVA region. At the used and standardized concentration, no species presented SPF ≥ 2, so they cannot be considered plants with photoprotector potential.

Os objetivos deste trabalho foram desenvolver e avaliar a estabilidade física de emulsões O/A contendo óleo de pequi (Caryocar brasiliense). Emulsões O/A contendo 10,0% (p/p) de INTRODUÇÃOEmulsão é um sistema termodinamicamente instável resultante da mistura de dois líquidos imiscíveis entre si e uma terceira fase contendo agente emulsificante (Breuer, 1985).De acordo com a natureza da fase externa, contínua ou ainda conhecida como dispersante podem ser classificadas em: emulsão água em óleo (A/O) a que contém água como fase dispersa sob a forma de pequenas partículas (maior que 0,1 mm) na fase oleosa e óleo em água (O/A) a emulsão composta pela dispersão de material oleoso/graxo na fase aquosa (Sharma, Shah, 1985).São muito utilizadas em cosméticos, para aplicação tópica, assim como em preparações farmacêuticas administradas por diferentes vias de administração (Pinho, Storpirtis, 1998), podendo ser incorporados em suas fases

Oil-in-water nanoemulsions are stable systems with droplet sizes in the 20-200 nm range. The physicochemical properties of these systems may be influenced by the addition of additives. Thus, the influence of ethoxylated (EL) and acetylated lanolin (AL) addition on the droplet size, pH values, electrical conductivity and stability of nanoemulsions was investigated. Then, effect of nano-emulsions additives with EL (NE-EL) or AL (NE-AL) in hydration, oiliness and pH of the skin were evaluated. Nanoemulsion safety was evaluated through the observation of no undesirable effects after skin formulation application. Both additives caused changes in droplet size and electrical conductivity, but not in pH values. Nanoemulsions containing up to 6.0% ethoxylated lanolin and 2.0% acetylated lanolin remained stable after centrifugation tests. Higher concentrations of the additives made the nanoemulsions unstable. Stability tests showed that ethoxylated lanolin produced more stable nanoemulsions then acetylated lanolin and that the major instability phenomenon occurring in these systems is coalescence at elevated temperatures. Nanoemulsion-based lanolin derivatives increased skin hydration and oiliness and did not change cutaneous pH values. These formulations are non-toxic since they did not cause any irritation on the skin surface after nanoemulsion application, showing potential as carriers for pharmaceuticals and cosmetic applications.

Ferulic acid (4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid) is a phytochemical constituent from the polyphenols group commonly found in whole grains, spinach, parsley, grapes and rhubarb. It has been widely applied in skin care formulations as photoprotective agent and delayer of cutaneous photoaging processes. This work aims to establish a protocol to the development of cosmetic formulations using thermoanalytical techniques (TG/DTG and DSC) and Pearson's correlation by FTIR data, in order to evaluate the compatibility between ferulic acid and excipients used in skin care formulations. The results obtained from the thermoanalytical techniques indicated compatibility between ferulic acid and the following excipients: passion fruit seed oil, Carbopol Ò Ultrez 30, EDTA, Crodabase CR2 Ò , Crodamol TM GTCC and Dow Corning Ò RM 2051. Nevertheless, the analysis also demonstrated the possibility of some interaction between ferulic acid and the following excipients: glyceryl stearate, Rapithix Ò A-60 and Optiphen Ò . To validate these results, it was demonstrated by Pearson's correlation that passion fruit seed oil, Carbopol Ò Ultrez 30, EDTA, Crodabase CR2 Ò , Crodamol TM GTCC, Dow Corning Ò RM 2051, glyceryl stearate and Rapithix Ò A-60 do not have any incompatibility that may compromise ferulic acid properties. Finally, it was also proved a meaningful incompatibility between ferulic acid and Optiphen Ò using Pearson's correlation. Thus, it is not recommended to use Optiphen Ò in the development of cosmetic formulations to carry ferulic acid.

No abstract

No abstract

Abstract:The aim of this work was to formulate O/W/O multiple emulsions containing açaí oil as a model system and to evaluate their physical stability and in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Multiple emulsions are complex dispersion systems, known also as, "emulsions of emulsions". These emulsion systems, have significant potential in the cosmetic industry. Euterpe oleracea Mart., Arecaceae, popularly known in Brazil as "açaí", is an economically important plant. Açaí oil has been used as antioxidant and as anti-inflammatory activities. The multiple emulsions were prepared using a two-step procedure. The investigated formulations were characterized and their stability over time was evaluated by preliminary and accelerated stability. O/W/O multiple emulsions containing the same concentration of sunscreens with and without açaí oil were evaluated by the International Sun Protection Factor Test Method. The samples containing 70% (w/w) of primary emulsion, 5% (w/w) PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, 10% (w/w) of açaí oil and 5% (w/w) of sucrose polybehenate have been found to be stable. The rheological measurements revealed that the samples exhibited non-Newtonian pseudoplastic flow behavior and thixotropy. To conclude, no statistical difference could be observed on the in vivo SPF to both multiple systems with or without açaí oil.