Achyrocline satureioides (Lam.) DC Asteraceae extracts (ASEs) have been investigated for the treatment of various skin disorders. This study reports the effects of ASE-loaded nanoemulsions (NEASE) on the cellular viability, death by necrosis, and migration of immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT cell line), as well as the irritant potential through the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). NEASE exhibited a polydispersity index above 0.12, with a droplet size of 300 nm, ζ-potential of −40 mV, and content of flavonoids close to 1 mg/mL. No cytotoxicity of the ASE was observed on HaCaT by MTT assay (up to 10 µg/mL). A significant increase of HaCaT viability was observed to NEASE (up to 5 μg/mL of flavonoids), compared to treatment with the ASE. The necrosis death evaluation demonstrated that only NEASE did not lead to cell death at all the tested concentrations. The scratch assay demonstrated that NEASE was able to increase the cell migration at low flavonoid concentrations. Finally, the HET-CAM test proved the non-irritative potential of NEASE. Overall, the results indicate the potential of the proposed formulations for topical use in wound healing, in view of their promising effects on proliferation and migration in keratinocytes, combined with an indication of the absence of cytotoxicity and non-irritating potential.
Introduction: Achyrocline satureioides (marcela or macela) is a plant widely used in folk medicine in South America. Recently, there has been increasing interest for the development of skin care products containing A. satureoides extracts, due to its welldocumented antioxidant, antiherpetic, and wound healing properties. Objectives: The present study aimed to develop and validate a yet unexplored stability-indicating and robust ultra-fast liquid chromatography (UFLC) method for the simultaneous quantification of the main flavonoids of A. satureioides in extracts, nanoemulsions, and porcine skin layers. Material and methods: The chromatographic separation of flavonoids quercetin, luteolin, and 3-O-methylquercetin was performed on a Luna C18 analytical column (100 mm × 2.0 mm i.d.; particle size 2.5 μm) using isocratic elution with methanol/phosphoric acid 1% (48:52 v/v) with a flow rate of 0.3 mL/min at 40 C. Results: The method was found to be specific, linear (R > 0.998), precise, accurate, and robust for all flavonoids assayed in A. satureioides extract, nanoemulsions, and porcine ear skin. A low matrix effect was noted for all complex matrices. The stability-indicating UFLC method was evaluated by submitting isolated flavonoids, a mixture of standards, and A. satureioides extract to acidic, alkaline, oxidative, UV-A/UV-C light, and thermal stress conditions. No peaks were found co-eluting with the flavonoids of interest in all matrices. The robustness of the method was confirmed using Plackett-Burman experimental design. Conclusion: The short run time (8 min) and reliability of the method could be useful for the determination of A. satureioides flavonoids in topical product development since extracts of this medicinal plant have been used to treat various skin disorders.
Soybean isoflavone-rich extracts have been considered as promising skin antiaging products due to their antioxidant activity. This study investigates the effect of soybean isoflavone forms on porcine ear skin permeation/retention from topical nanoemulsions and their potential in protecting skin against oxidative damage caused by UVA/UVB light. Soybean non-hydrolyzed (SNHE) and hydrolyzed (SHE) extracts, mainly composed of genistin and genistein, were produced. Nanoemulsions containing SNHE (NE) and SHE (NE) were prepared by spontaneous emulsification procedure and yielded monodispersed nanoemulsions. A delay of isoflavone release was observed after extracts incorporation into nanoemulsions when compared to a propyleneglycol dispersion of pure compounds. An increase of isoflavone skin retention from nanoemulsions was also achieved. However, from extracts, a higher amount of genistin (NE) and a lower amount of genistein (NE) were detected in the skin in comparison to pure isoflavones. Finally, the protection of porcine ear skin by formulations against UVA/UVB oxidative stress was evaluated. Extract-loaded nanoemulsions offered better skin protection than pure isoflavones. Skin lipids were similarly protected by NE and NE, whereas skin proteins were more protected by NE. Overall, nanoemulsions containing isoflavone-rich soybean extracts may be considered a better topical formulation aiming skin protection from UVA/UVB oxidative damage.
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