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Video-monitoring can be exploited as a valuable tool to acquire continuous, high-quality information on the evolution of beach morphology at a low cost and, on such basis, perform beach resilience analyses. This manuscript presents preliminary results of an ongoing, long-term monitoring programme of five sandy Italian beaches along the Adriatic and Tyrrhenian sea. The project aims at analyzing nearshore morphologic variabilities on a time period of several years, to link them to resilience indicators. The observations indicate that most of the beach width variations can be linked to discrete variations of sandbar systems, and most of all to an offshore migration and decay of the outermost bars. Further, the largest net shoreline displacements across the observation period are experienced by beaches with a clear NOM (Net Offshore Migration)-type evolution of the seabed.

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Recent studies have shown that wave blocking occurs at river mouths with strong currents typically preventing relatively short period sea and swell waves from propagating up the river. However, observations demonstrate that lower frequency waves, so-called infragravity waves, do pass through and propagate up the river, particularly during storm events. We present observations from the Misa River estuary of infragravity wave propagation up the river during storm conditions. A model of the complex nonlinear interactions that drive infragravity waves is presented. The results are discussed in the context of an observed river mouth bar formed in the lower reach of the Misa River.

Abstract:Numerical experiments of wave-current interaction have been performed to investigate the evolution and dissipation of horizontal large-scale vortical structures generated by differential wave breaking and current shearing at river mouths. Specific focus is on the role played by turbulence of scales smaller than the water depth and by seabed friction on the dissipation of the mentioned macrovortices. The analysis reveals two regions of turbulence generation: at the river mouth, and along the curved seaward boundary of the shoal. In the latter zone, macrovortices are formed due to differential wave breaking induced by the sudden variation in water depth and enhanced by opposing currents which favour wave steepening. Such vortices are then advected towards the shore. Among the dissipative mechanisms, dissipation induced by seabed friction is deemed dominant, in particular in the most shallow waters of the shoal. Sub-grid turbulence dissipation, conversely, is more efficient offshore, although exerting some effect also over the shoal when supported by the continuous action of waves.