Wave-Current Interactions and Infragravity Wave Propagation at a Microtidal Inlet

Melito, Lorenzo; Postacchini, Matteo; Sheremet, A.; Calantoni, Joseph; Zitti, Gianluca; Darvini, Giovanna; Brocchini, Maurizio

doi:10.3390/proceedings2110628

Cited by 14 publications

(19 citation statements)

References 18 publications

(22 reference statements)

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“…Previous work has identified that more energetic ocean wave conditions correspond to an increased wave climate within IOCE (Bertin and Olabarrieta, 2016; Williams and Stacey, 2016; Melito et al ., 2018). This is consistent with our findings (Table III).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Variability in infragravity wave processes during estuary artificial entrance openings

McSweeney

Stout

Kennedy

2020

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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Intermittently open/closed estuaries (IOCE) are wave-dominated estuaries with entrances that temporarily close to the ocean. Wave-current interactions play a major role in estuary entrance morphodynamics and influence the degree of energy transfer from the ocean into the lagoon. This study utilizes artificial entrance openings of multiple ICOE in Victoria, Australia, to capture continuous hydrodynamic and geomorphic data throughout the opening cycle. We illustrate that water level oscillations in the infragravity (IG) band) are present in the basin during open entrance conditions. IG waves were observed to propagate up to 1.8 km upstream of the mouth while the entrance was open. Our work identifies that changes in cross-sectional area, bed depth at the berm position, and offshore wave height control the magnitude of IG waves within the estuary basin. IG wave magnitude is also tidally modulated and increases with high tides when the nearshore water level is higher. Late during the drainage phase, waves were observed to track the margins of the channel, away from the thalweg, and reach the basin. IG wave energy was highest immediately after the basin had ceased draining and while channel dimensions at the mouth were within 10% of their maximum value. As the entrance aggrades, IG wave magnitude decreases in the absence of energetic offshore wave conditions. We relate the changes in IG wave magnitude and frequency to a six-stage conceptual model of the opening-closure sequence. Within the basin, IG wave energy, height and frequency were also consistently highest closer to the mouth and decreased with distance upstream. Our findings indicate that water level oscillations in the IG band are a persistent feature in IOCE and may be the norm rather than the exception in these systems. As IG waves were captured serendipitously as part of a larger field campaign, future work will focus on instrumenting IOCE to gain high-resolution data to quantify IG wave processes during entrance openings.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Variability in infragravity wave processes during estuary artificial entrance openings

McSweeney

Stout

Kennedy

2020

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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“…For example, we expect uncertainties in the water surface elevation imposed at the downstream boundary of the hydraulic model domain to strongly influence extreme water levels in the downstream reach. Wave contributions, such as wave setup and wave propagation, are also not directly represented by the BN but can strongly influence water levels [88][89][90]. While this study can be improved by using complementary data at these stations, this typically requires dedicated and extensive studies to properly capture complex coastal and hydrological processes [64,91,92] and is left for future studies.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Copula-Based Bayesian Network for Modeling Compound Flood Hazard from Riverine and Coastal Interactions at the Catchment Scale: An Application to the Houston Ship Channel, Texas

Couasnon¹,

Sebastian

Morales-Nápoles

2018

Preprint

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Abstract:Traditional flood hazard analyses often rely on univariate probability distributions; however, in many coastal catchments, flooding is the result of complex hydrodynamic interactions between multiple drivers. For example, synoptic meteorological conditions can produce considerable rainfall-runoff, while also generating wind-driven elevated sea-levels. When these drivers interact in space and time, they can exacerbate flood impacts, a phenomenon known as compound flooding. In this paper, we build a Bayesian Network based on Gaussian copulas to generate the equivalent of 500 years of daily stochastic boundary conditions for a coastal watershed in Southeast Texas. In doing so, we overcome many of the limitations of conventional univariate approaches and are able to probabilistically represent compound floods caused by riverine and coastal interactions. We model the resulting water levels using a one-dimensional (1D) steady-state hydraulic model and find that flood stages in the catchment are strongly affected by backwater effects from tributary inflows and downstream water levels. By comparing our results against a bathtub modeling approach, we show that simplifying the multivariate dependence between flood drivers can lead to an underestimation of flood impacts, highlighting that accounting for multivariate dependence is critical for the accurate representation of flood risk in coastal catchments prone to compound events.

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“…studies (Brocchini et al, 2017;Melito et al, 2018aMelito et al, , 2019 The EsCoSed field campaign has also provided useful information on the seabed morphology at the river mouth, highlighting the formation of large deposits/bars (blue in the right panel of figure 18) and scours holes (red in the right panel of figure 18). The sand deposits are found to be at a typical location, i.e.…”

Section: River Mouthsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Other recent field observations support the role of river mouths and the upriver propagation of IG waves. Among these, notable are the EsCoSed and MORSE project studies (Brocchini et al, ; Melito et al, , ) performed at the mouth of the Misa River (Italy, see Figures and ), located at a microtidal site (RTR < 3) with a dissipative‐to‐intermediate beach (5 < Ω < 20).…”

Section: Wave Forced‐dynamics For Three Fundamental Subsystems: Sandbmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The Misa River estuary in Senigallia (Italy) depicting locations of measuring stations within the final river reach (TGdown, QR1, QR2, QR3, TGup) and in the sea (QS1, QS2, QS3). Adapted, with permission, fromMelito et al (2018a).On the basis of water elevation measurements collected at various locations both in the sea (QS infigure 17) and in the river (TG and QR in figure 17), the energy flux density dE f and the energy flux E f : -where S(f) is the power spectral density, C g the wave group velocity and f the frequency. The fundamental result is that while in the sea (QS1, QS2) most of the energy content is due to swell and sea waves, the IG band becomes dominant within the river (e.g.…”

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confidence: 99%

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Wave‐forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones

Brocchini

2019

Earth Surf Processes Landf

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The role of wave forcing on the main hydro-morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross-shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly time scale, at most. Local and nonlocal mechanisms as well as connections across three main interrelated subsystems of the nearshore-the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zoneare analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave-forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave-current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental nonlocal mechanisms are both Infragravity (IG) waves and large-scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved. This is the author manuscript accepted for publication and has undergone full peer review but has not been through the copyediting, typesetting, pagination and proofreading process, which may lead to differences between this version and the Version of Record. Please cite this article as doi: 10.1002/esp.4699 propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash-swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along-river-flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sand bars.

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Wave-Current Interactions and Infragravity Wave Propagation at a Microtidal Inlet

Cited by 14 publications

References 18 publications

Variability in infragravity wave processes during estuary artificial entrance openings

Variability in infragravity wave processes during estuary artificial entrance openings

A Copula-Based Bayesian Network for Modeling Compound Flood Hazard from Riverine and Coastal Interactions at the Catchment Scale: An Application to the Houston Ship Channel, Texas

Wave‐forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones

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