In this research, eight different 3D weft-knitted fabrics were developed and evaluated. 3D fabrics have been knitted on circular weft-knitting machines with two different gauges: 20E gauge and 28E gauge. Three different raw materials were used for the fabric’s production: high molecular mass polyethylene (HPPE) yarn and 0.05 mm diameter steel wire in the outer layers (for the front and reverse) and polyamide yarn in the binding layer. The experiments were conducted on the developed 3D knitted fabrics to determine the fabric’s resistance to mechanical risks such as circular blade cut, puncture, abrasion, and also to evaluate the comfort parameter, such as air permeability. It was defined that 3D weft-knitted fabrics best results on tests: circular blade cut, puncture and abrasion resistant were achieved using HPPE yarn twisted with steel wire, higher mass per unit area with more significant amount of steel wire. According to the standard EN 388:2003, three samples of developed 3D weft-knitted fabrics had the highest 5th blade cut and the highest (4th) abrasion resistance level. All of them had the highest (4th) level of puncture resistance. 3D fabrics knitted on a circular weft-knitting machine of gauge 28E ensured 1.3–2.1 times greater blade cut and 4.9–12.1 times greater abrasion resistance result, than fabrics knitted on gauge 20E, due to a higher stitch density, higher mass per unit area, density and fabric’s thickness. But on the other hand, these parameters lowered air permeability by 20.2–43.0%.
3D virtual representation of garment provides high potential for design, product development and marketing processes, especially in mass customization strategies implementation. Clothing industry rapidly turns to virtual simulation which not only presents realistic 3D view of garment but also simulates mechanical behaviour of materials. 3D CAD systems can be used to define strain distribution in virtual garment which describes garment fit without actually producing the garment. Strain and distance ease between body and garment depends not only upon body measurements and garment construction, but also on mechanical and structural properties of selected material. The aim of this research was to investigate virtual garment fit using "Modaris 3D Fit" (Lectra) software subjected to fabrics mechanical (tensile, bending, shear) and structural (composition, thickness, area density) properties investigating strain distribution in garment and distance ease between garment and human body. It was defined that for diagonal cut garments the highest influence upon garment fit has fabric tensile properties in weft direction. The highest influence is obtained at high distance ease and small strain values zones and at negative distance ease and high strain values zones. Therefore, presented method could be used for tight-fitted garments also for garments with draperies on purpose to investigate garment fit upon fabrics used.
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly. Design/methodology/approach For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (dbust, dwaist, dhip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics. Findings It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on. Research limitations/implications This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis. Practical implications The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing. Originality/value The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.
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