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Purpose The purpose of this paper is to investigate basic block pattern modification according to fabric used and the mismatch between 2D and 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths when ease allowance is changed uniformly. Design/methodology/approach For the investigation, virtual try-on software Modaris 3D Fit (CAD Lectra) was used. The straight shape dress fitting was done using seven cotton and cotton blended plain weave fabrics. After virtual try-on, the mismatch d (dbust, dwaist, dhip) between 2D and 3D measure lines was measured in order to determine base pattern adjustments using different fabrics. Findings It was found that the position and length of 3D measure lines at bust, waist and hip girths does not match the position and length of corresponding lines in 2D base patterns after virtual try-on due to fabrics deformation, which is related to mechanical properties. It was proved that derived linear equations presenting a relation between mismatch and ease allowance values could be used for basic block pattern modification that 3D and 2D measure lines would coincide during clothing try-on. Research limitations/implications This research is limited to cotton/cotton blended woven fabrics and straight dress; therefore, other fabric types and other clothing could be investigated in the future to expand data basis. Practical implications The main practical point of the proposed method is that in order to obtain particular 3D ease value in a garment, it can be calculated from 2D ease allowance value and the fabric’s tensile properties using linear equations. The basic block patterns could be modified using this method not only for tested fabrics but also for other fabrics with similar composition, structural and mechanical properties. 3D ease values in garment can be easily checked by using virtual try-on technology without production of real prototypes. The method is applicable for making ready-to-wear or individually tailored clothing. Originality/value The proposed method in this paper presented opportunity to modify the basic block patterns of the dress according to the fabric’s tensile properties and 2D ease allowance. The basic block patterns could be modified according to presented linear functions for each tested fabric. The application of this method can fully ensure the interaction between the garment 2D patterns to 3D garment so that a desired 3D garment fitting effect to the body can easily be satisfied by the adjustment of particular fabric characteristics. It offers further possibilities, especially with developing virtual try-on technologies.

Nowadays, virtual try-on is an irreplaceable technology in fashion industry, so it is very important to prove virtual try-on matching with the real garments. Therefore, the aim of this research was to compare garment fit using virtual try-on and scanning technologies. For this reason, garment visual appearance and distance ease between straight fit dress and mannequin in respect to fabrics properties were investigated. Women mannequins in different sizes were scanned by 3D scanner VITUS Smart XXL without and with the real straight fit dresses made from five different woven fabrics. Fabrics mechanical properties were defined by KES-F. Scanned mannequins were covered with the same size and fabric virtual dresses by Modaris 3D (CAD Lectra). Distance ease of virtual and scanned garments was compared in bust and waist cross-sections. It was defined that distance ease values at bust girth of real and virtual dresses differed till 29.9 % (1.16 cm), while at waist varied from 7.3 % (0.51 cm) to 47.3 % (4.30 cm) because of wrinkles in this area. Generally, appearance of the virtual dresses was similar to real dresses with some differences in garment shape fluency, however by increasing of the mannequin size, similarities decreased. It was assumed that very high shear rigidity G could not be very well reflected in 3D CAD system, therefore differences between virtual and real dresses appearance occurred. The general appearance and form of bust and waist cross-sections of virtual dresses with fabric 03 had less similarities comparing with real dresses due to high G value. So, comparative study showed that the accuracy of virtual try-on was quite useful comparing to real garments, if shear rigidity of fabrics was lower than 1.6 N/m*º and tensile strain in warp direction was higher than 1.80 %.