Intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum contribute threefold to the maintenance of a healthy skin: by hydration, cell adhesion, and reduction of transepidermal water loss. All of these functions can be attributed to the self-organizing property of the amphiphilic molecules of the stratum corneum lipids. A new type of skin care product called Lamellar Gel was developed, which contains a (synthesized) pseudo-ceramide. Its structure is similar to that of ceramide found among the stratum corneum lipids, which allows it to control intramolecular interactions. Compared to regular emulsions the Lamellar Gel demonstrated better skin care characteristics regarding permeability, skin hydration, and skin occlusion. This was attributed to the fact that it formed the same self-organizing structure as natural stratum corneum lipids, hence showing a high affinity to the skin. A high moisturizing effect was observed as the Lamellar Gel combines the benefits of both O/W and W/O emulsions: it provides the same initial hydration as an O/W emulsion and at the same time the same occlusivity as a W/O emulsion. Transepidermal water loss increases under dry environmental conditions. This especially affects the skin around the eyes, where the skin is very thin, and wrinkles are very easily formed. Treatment with the Lamellar Gel recovered these wrinkles promptly and hydrated the stratum corneum for a long time.
The mechanism of the self-assembly of the lamellar structure of natural stratum corneum lipids (SCL) has been a subject of considerable interest. We have examined this question by using a synthetic pseudo-ceramide (sphingolipid E, SLE) which was analogous to the naturally occurring ceramide type 2. The thermotropic properties and the structural characteristics of SLE, together with other main components of SCL, fatty acids, and cholesterol, were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray analysis. A mixture of SLE and stearic acid was in a stable alpha-form having a lamellar structure, which is very similar to that of natural SCL. However, lipid mixtures in which stearic acid were replaced by oleic acid did not form lamellar structures, and existed in the crystalline states. This indicates that the stable bilayer formation of the natural SCL is strongly dependent on the molecular fatty acid structure. Moreover, incorporation of cholesterol (0-50%) into equimolar mixtures of SLE/stearic acid and of SLE/oleic acid caused a marked decrease of melting entropies, while the aggregation states of both systems were not changed. This effect of cholesterol can be attributed to the disorder of the molecular packing. These results suggest that the hydrophobic interactions between the SCL are important for bilayer formation as are the hydrophilic interactions between the polar groups.
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