Vitamin E is fundamental for a proper function of human cells. Mostly obtained from vegetable oils, it has antioxidant and non-antioxidant actions. At times, its oral intake or skin application are employed. Oral intake is recommended in some cases. Differently, the topical application is a part of daily skin routine. Both in oral or in topical formulations, it is employed in its isoforms or derivatives. Tocopherols and tocotrienols are isoforms while derivatives are synthetic forms. In pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations, vitamin E and its derivatives are widely used due to its antioxidant and photoprotective properties. However, the clinical success treatment is often impaired by its low skin penetration, high lipophilicity, and chemical instability. A rational formulation design in the development of novel vitamin E dosage forms is required. In this chapter, the most successful and innovative approaches towards Vitamin E and its derivatives loaded in formulations for skin health promotion are reviewed. Conventional and nanoparticle-based formulations enable vitamin E chemical stabilization, and they are suitable vehicles for its release on the skin. Further, nano-sized carriers can increase vitamin E content in formulations as well as favor its skin penetration.

Purpose: We aimed to evaluate the effect of blueberry extract and microparticles (MPs) on sunscreen performance of multifunctional cosmetics. Octocrylene (OCT), benzophenone-3 (BENZ-3) and Tinosorb® M (MBBT) were employed as UV filters. Methods: An in-silico modeling was used to determine the UV filters concentrations to obtain high values of sunscreen protection factor (SPF) and UVA protection factor (UVA-PF). MBBT and blueberryloaded microparticles (MPMB+B) and MBBT-loaded microparticles (MPMBBT) were prepared by spraydrying. OCT and BENZ-3 were added in the oil phase of cosmetics. Cosmetics A and B contained MPMB+B and MPMBBT, respectively, and cosmetic C was prepared without MP. Characterization, physicochemical stability and in vitro SPF was performed. UV filters distribution in human stratum corneum (SC) for each cosmetic was performed. Anti-oxidant activity of blueberry extract was evaluated. Results: Sunscreen combination with the highest SPF was selected for formulations. Formulations A and B maintained their rheological behavior over time, unlike formulation C. In-vitro SPFs for formulations A, B and C were 51.0, 33.7 and 49.6, respectively. We also developed and validated a method for analysis of the UV filters by HPLC/ PDA suitable for the in-vivo assay. In Tape stripping test, MBBT showed SC distribution similar for all cosmetic formulations. OCT and BENZ-3 distribution to formulation A and C was also similar. Blueberry extract showed antioxidant capacity of 16.71 μg/mL equivalent to vitamin C. Conclusion: Cosmetics containing MPs presented better physical stability. Blueberry increased the photoprotective capacity of the formulations and added extra benefits due to its anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties.

Nanocosmetics are personal care products containing nanocarriers or nanoparticles. Nanocarriers have been used in sunscreens, moisturizers, perfumes, and anti-aging and hair products. These carriers increase formulation efficacy and promote controlled release of active ingredients. Polymeric nanocarriers or lipid nanocarriers containing sunscreens have enhanced ultraviolet protection. In addition, these nanocarriers protect unstable ingredients from degrading ultraviolet radiations. Furthermore, nanocarriers also impart moisturizing effect due to their reduced particle size. This chapter describes issues related to nanocarrier-based cosmetics production, characterization, and biological evaluation.

Objective: Nanotechnology has been intensively applied to the development of novel cosmetic products for hair and scalp care during the last decades. Such a trend is corroborated by the fact that about 19% of the total nanocosmetics registered in the StatNano database are intended for hair and scalp care.Nanotechnology-enabled formulations based on nanoparticles, cyclodextrins, liposomes and nanoemulsions have emerged as novel approaches due to chemical stability and their controlled release. Regarding hair care formulations, nanocarriers can target the hair shaft, hair follicle and scalp. Therefore, they have been used to treat several hair disorders, including dandruff and other hair-damaging conditions.Methods: This review addressed the most important nanocarriers applied to hair-related disorders improvement. Furthermore, the application for hair photoprotection and improvement of hair colour duration by nanotechnological formulations is also approached. Besides, we provided an overview of the current scenario of available nano-based commercial hair products and novel patented inventions.Results: From the patent search, the Patent Cooperation Treaty was pointed as the most important depositing agency while the United States of America has been the most depositing country. On the contrary, according to the StatNano database, Brazil stands out in the hair care worldwide market, and it is also the main producer of hair cosmetics based on nanotechnology. Conclusion:As nano-based products offer several advantages over conventional cosmetics, it is expected that in future, there will be more research on nanocarriers applied to hair disorders, as well as commercial products and patent applications. K E Y W O R D S hair care, hair diseases, hair shaft, nanocarriers, scalp Résumé Au cours des dernières décennies, les nanotechnologies ont été intensivement appliquées au développement de nouveaux produits cosmétiques pour le soin des cheveux et du cuir chevelu. Cette tendance est corroborée par le fait qu'environ | 321 SANTOS et al. How to cite this article: Santos JS, Barradas TN, Tavares GD. Advances in nanotechnology-based hair care products applied to hair shaft and hair scalp disorders. Int

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Essentials oils from citrus have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Furthermore, terpenes are their main phytochemicals, namely limonene is the most important one. As terpenes are permeation promoters, they have been used to improve transdermal delivery of drugs. In addition, a proper oil source is a key factor to obtain desired phytochemicals. Recently, polymeric nanoparticles, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, liposomes and elastic liposomes as carriers of citrus essential oils or citrus terpenes have been developed to achieve more effective formulations. In this chapter, the most recent publications on nanocarriers containing citrus oils or citrus terpenes were addressed. In that regard, citrus oil or terpenes loaded in nanotechnological systems improve drugs skin permeation. Besides, terpenes loaded in nanoparticles also increase transdermal delivery of drugs. As essential oils and their respective terpenes are volatile compound and prone to oxidation, its encapsulations reduce oxidation and volatility. Hence, an improved antioxidant activity can be obtained. Therefore, nanoformulations of citrus oils or citrus terpenes are potential approaches to skin topical and transdermal delivery.