It is common that retinoids used in skincare can cause skin dryness, irritation and redness which is a complaint for the use of these molecules in skincare formulations. Objective: to investigate the influence of a mixture of polysaccharides to improve retinol-based formulations in a 12-day inner volar forearm study. Methods: in total, 22 inner volar forearms were treated over a 12-day topical application of a Placebo formulation containing 0.5% retinol verses a formulation containing 0.5% retinol and 3.0% of a complex of polysaccharides. Application occurred 2X/day in the morning and evening. Skin testing included barrier disruption, erythema, and skin hydration. After a 3-day regression of treatment, skin hydration was measured again. Results: the 0.5% retinol Placebo formulation showed a significant impact on skin dehydration compared to untreated control or polysaccharide-treated areas. The formulation containing retinol and 3.0% of the polysaccharides, maintained skin hydration levels comparable to the untreated control. Neither formulation had a statistically significant impact on skin erythema or barrier disruption. After the 3-day regression, the polysaccharide mixture continued to demonstrate significant moisturization benefits superior to the untreated and active-treated sites. Conclusions: a mixture of polysaccharides was able to mitigate the short-term skin drying effects of retinol and continued to moisturize the skin after a 3-Day regression.
Background: In the skin, hyaluronic acid is broken down to smaller fragments by hyaluronidase enzymes, particularly when skin is wounded. The impact of various molecular weight fragments of HA on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) with regard to expression of important cellular proteins has not been deeply explored.Aims: Examination of three molecular weight (Mw) fractions of hyaluronic acid: 1) average Mw of the high fraction: 1.5-2 MDa, 2) average Mw of the medium fraction: 200-500 kDa, and 3) average Mw of the low fraction: 5-10 kDa and a unique 1:1:1 composite complex of the three HA fragments (Triluronic ® Acid) was done to examine the influence of the HA on two critical skin cell protein targets: hyaluronan synthase-1 (HAS-1) and the HA binding protein cluster of differentiation 44 (CD44).Methods: NHEKs were treated in vitro with a 1.0% stock solution of each HA Mw fraction at 1.0, 0.5, and 0.1% concentrations of the 1.0% solution and the polysaccharide composite at the same concentrations for 48 Hrs. The cells were than analyzed by ELISA protein assays for HAS-1 and CD44 protein content.Results: Examination of HAS-1 protein expression indicates that none of the HA test materials influenced the expression of HAS-1 at any concentration. Examination of the CD44 protein expression indicated that the low Mw fraction and the commercial complex of the three Mw fractions upregulated CD44 protein expression in NHEKs, but the medium Mw and high Mw HA fractions did not.
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