Retinol Has a Skin Dehydrating Effect That Can Be Improved by a Mixture of Water-Soluble Polysaccharides

Abstract

It is common that retinoids used in skincare can cause skin dryness, irritation and redness which is a complaint for the use of these molecules in skincare formulations. Objective: to investigate the influence of a mixture of polysaccharides to improve retinol-based formulations in a 12-day inner volar forearm study. Methods: in total, 22 inner volar forearms were treated over a 12-day topical application of a Placebo formulation containing 0.5% retinol verses a formulation containing 0.5% retinol and 3.0% of a complex of polysaccharides. Application occurred 2X/day in the morning and evening. Skin testing included barrier disruption, erythema, and skin hydration. After a 3-day regression of treatment, skin hydration was measured again. Results: the 0.5% retinol Placebo formulation showed a significant impact on skin dehydration compared to untreated control or polysaccharide-treated areas. The formulation containing retinol and 3.0% of the polysaccharides, maintained skin hydration levels comparable to the untreated control. Neither formulation had a statistically significant impact on skin erythema or barrier disruption. After the 3-day regression, the polysaccharide mixture continued to demonstrate significant moisturization benefits superior to the untreated and active-treated sites. Conclusions: a mixture of polysaccharides was able to mitigate the short-term skin drying effects of retinol and continued to moisturize the skin after a 3-Day regression.

Passive Enhancement of Retinol Skin Penetration by Jojoba Oil Measured Using the Skin Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeation Assay (Skin-PAMPA): A Pilot Study

“…However, as was recently reported, retinol can have a dehydrating effect on the skin which, over time, may lead to increased skin erythema and flaking. 11 Technologies that enhance the skin permeability of retinol may allow formulators who are employing retinol to lower the active levels of the molecule which can help to mitigate the skin dehydrating effects. Methods to help improve the overall efficacy and safety of retinoid use can include, for example, encapsulation or incorporation of the retinoids into unique emulsion structures such as micro- or nanoemulsions.…”

“…However, the use of retinol has been demonstrated to have a powerful skin dehydrating effect which can lead to skin dryness and potentially to skin irritation. 11 Recent work has demonstrated that jojoba oil, formulated as microemulsions, has the potential to enhance the penetration of various drugs through the skin. 12 In addition, previous work demonstrated that retinoids formulated in a soft colloidal nanocarrier system composed of jojoba oil could enhance the benefits of the retinoid in psoriatic patients.…”

Can Performance and Gentleness Be Reconciled? A Skin Care Approach for Sensitive Skin

“…Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract is an active that has been developed to replicate some of the mechanistic pathways observable for retinol (elastin and collagen stimulation, CCN1 inhibition), without some of the common drawbacks associated with retinol (stability, irritation). Although retinol's irritation potential is more anecdotal, with little literature to conclusively state that it is irritating, it is known to be drying [19], which should be avoided in a range designed for sensitive skin. Nephelium lappaceum leaf extract plays in the same territory as other actives or compounds, for example Bakuchiol, which aim to show similar efficacy to retinol, but without its downsides [20].…”