Purpose: This study aimed to determine the optimal blending ratio of extracts of Hippophae rhamnoides (H. rhamnoides) fruit, Rubus fruticosus (R. fruticosus) leaf, and Perillae folium (P. folium) leaf as a potential functional material for antiwrinkle, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening properties. Methods: We used the design of experiment (DOE) efficacy method to identify the optimal blend ratio for a natural extract complex. In addition, we tested the efficacy of the extract complex and the individual extracts by experiments, including elastase inhibition assay, NO inhibition assay, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and ROS inhibition assay. Results: DOE methods using natural extracts showed that the most efficacious ratio of H. rhamnoides fruit: R. fruticosus leaf: P. folium leaf was 0.25:0.7:0.05. At this ratio, the elastase inhibitory effect, an indicator of wrinkle improvement, was 28% compared to the control. The antioxidant activity was 71.8% higher than the control. Additionally, NO formation was significantly suppressed by the extract complex. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity, a whitening index, showed 24.4% improvement over the control. Finally, hydrogen peroxide-induced cytotoxicity was significantly inhibited following treatment with the extract complex. Conclusion: The natural extract complex of H. rhamnoides, R. Fruticosus, and P. folium was found to have beneficial wrinkle improvement, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and whitening effects, and has potential as a functional cosmetic material.
In this study, we aim to study the functionality of multiple effects of peptide collagen and naturally derived compounds through in vitro experiments and human application tests. Method: Cytotoxicity of inner beauty film (IBF), pro-collagen generation ability, elastase and collagenase inhibition, DPPH radical scavenging and tyrosinase inhibition ability were measured, and skin improvement, through in vitro and human application test. Results: Cytotoxicity was not confirmed up to 1000 μg/mL. Elastase inhibition was 7.2% at a concentration of 125 μg/mL, and collagenase showed an inhibition rate of 16.3% at 31.3 μg/mL. The pro-collagen synthesis showed expression of 34%, compared with the negative control when the concentration was 62.5 μg/mL. The antioxidant activity of 250 μg/mL and whitening effect of 62.5 μg/mL are showed in the Results section, and there was no observed deformation or color change even after confirming the stability for 6 months. Even in the human clinical study, the wrinkle improvement before and after using the IBF was 32.2% at maximum, skin melanin and brown spot improvement was 32.5%, pore improvement was 31.5%, and skin density improvement was 12.8%, as shown in the Results section. Conclusion: Therefore, the IBF containing the complex of peptide collagen and naturally derived compounds has a positive effect on wrinkle improvement, skin melanin and brown spot improvement, skin pore improvement, and skin density improvement, as well as exhibiting antioxidant and whitening effects. As a result, IBF can be developed as a key material for cosmetics and foods.
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