In addition to pure synthetic fragrance materials several natural extracts are still in use in the perfume industry. Among them oak moss absolute, prepared from the lichen Evernia prunastri (L.) Arch., is considered a major contact sensitizer and is therefore included in the fragrance mix used for diagnosing perfume allergy. The process of preparing oak moss absolute has changed during recent years and, even though several potential sensitizers have been identified from former benzene extracts, its present constituents and their allergenic status are not clear. In the study reported here, we applied a method developed for the identification of contact allergens present in natural complex mixtures to oak moss absolute. The method is based on the combination of bioassay-guided chemical fractionation, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis and structure-activity relationship studies. Our first results showed that atranol and chloroatranol, formed by transesterification and decarboxylation of the lichen depsides, atranorin and chloroatranorin, during the preparation of oak moss absolute, are strong elicitants in most patients sensitized to oak moss. Methyl-beta-orcinol carboxylate, a depside degradation product and the most important monoaryl derivative of oak moss from an olfactory standpoint, was also found to elicit a reaction in most patients.

Oak moss absolute is a long-known, popular natural extract widely used in perfumes. It is reported as the cause of allergic reactions in a significant number of those with perfume allergy. Oak moss absolute has been the target of recent research to identify its allergenic components. Recently, chloroatranol, a hitherto unknown fragrance allergen, was identified in oak moss absolute. The objective was to assess the clinical importance of chloroatranol as a fragrance allergen by characterizing its elicitation profile. 13 patients previously showing a positive patch test to oak moss absolute and chloroatranol were included, together with a control group of 10 patients without sensitization to either of the 2 materials. A serial dilution patch test was performed on the upper back with concentrations ranging from 200 to 0.0063 p.p.m. of chloroatranol in ethanol. Simultaneously, the participant performed an open test simulating the use of perfumes on the volar aspect of the forearms in a randomized and double-blinded design. A solution with 5 p.p.m. chloroatranol was used for 14 days, and, in case of no reaction, the applications were continued for another 14 days with a solution containing 25 p.p.m. All test subjects (13/13) developed an allergic reaction at the site of application of the solution containing chloroatranol. Among them, 12/13 (92%) gave a positive reaction to the 5 p.p.m. solution and 1 to 25 p.p.m. None of the controls reacted (P < 0.001). The use test was terminated at median day 4. The dose eliciting a reaction in 50% of the test subjects at patch testing was 0.2 p.p.m. In conclusion, the hidden exposure to a potent allergen widely used in perfumes has caused a highly sensitized cohort of individuals. Judged from the elicitation profile, chloroatranol is the most potent allergen present in consumer products today.

Fragrance substances represent a very diverse group of chemicals; a proportion of them are associated with the ability to cause allergic reactions in the skin. Efforts to find substitute materials are hindered by the need to undertake animal testing for determining both skin sensitization hazard and potency. One strategy to avoid such testing is through an understanding of the relationships between chemical structure and skin sensitization, so-called structure-activity relationships. In recent work, we evaluated 2 groups of fragrance chemicals -- saturated aldehydes and alpha,beta-unsaturated aldehydes. Simple quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) models relating the EC3 values [derived from the local lymph node assay (LLNA)] to physicochemical properties were developed for both sets of aldehydes. In the current study, we evaluated an additional group of carbonyl-containing compounds to test the predictive power of the developed QSARs and to extend their scope. The QSAR models were used to predict EC3 values of 10 newly selected compounds. Local lymph node assay data generated for these compounds demonstrated that the original QSARs were fairly accurate, but still required improvement. Development of these QSAR models has provided us with a better understanding of the potential mechanisms of action for aldehydes, and hence how to avoid or limit allergy. Knowledge generated from this work is being incorporated into new/improved rules for sensitization in the expert toxicity prediction system, deductive estimation of risk from existing knowledge (DEREK).

Chloroatranol and atranol are degradation products of chloroatranorin and atranorin, respectively, and have recently been identified as important contact allergens in the natural fragrance extract, oak moss absolute. Oak moss absolute is widely used in perfumery and is the cause of many cases of fragrance allergic contact dermatitis. Chloroatranol elicits reactions at very low levels of exposure. In oak moss absolute, chloroatranol and atranol are present together and both may contribute to the allergenicity and eliciting capacity of the natural extract. In this study, 10 eczema patients with known sensitization to chloroatranol and oak moss absolute were tested simultaneously to a serial dilution of chloroatranol and atranol in ethanol, in equimolar concentrations (0.0034-1072 microM). Dose-response curves were estimated and analysed by logistic regression. The estimated difference in elicitation potency of chloroatranol relative to atranol based on testing with equimolar concentrations was 217% (95% confidence interval 116-409%). Both substances elicited reactions at very low levels of exposure. It is concluded that the differences in elicitation capacity between the 2 substances are counterbalanced by exposure being greater to atranol than to chloroatranol and that both substances contribute to the clinical problems seen in oak moss absolute-sensitized individuals.

This paper describes a validated liquid chromatographic-tandem mass spectrometric method for quantitative analysis of the potential oak moss allergens atranol and chloroatranol in perfumes and similar products. The method employs LC-MS-MS with electrospray ionization (ESI) in negative mode. The compounds are analysed by selective reaction monitoring (SRM) of 2 or 3 ions for each compound in order to obtain high selectivity and sensitivity. The method has been validated for the following parameters: linearity; repeatability; recovery; limit of detection; and limit of quantification. The limits of detection, 5.0 ng/mL and 2.4 ng/mL, respectively, for atranol and chloroatranol, achieved by this method allowed identification of these compounds at concentrations below those causing allergic skin reactions in oak-moss-sensitive patients. The recovery of chloratranol from spiked perfumes was 96+/-4%. Low recoveries (49+/-5%) were observed for atranol in spiked perfumes, indicating ion suppression caused by matrix components. The method has been applied to the analysis of 10 randomly selected perfumes and similar products.