The 7th amendment to the EU Cosmetics Directive prohibits to put animal-tested cosmetics on the market in Europe after 2013. In that context, the European Commission invited stakeholder bodies (industry, non-governmental organisations, EU Member States, and the Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) to identify scientific experts in five toxicological areas, i.e. toxicokinetics, repeated dose toxicity, carcinogenicity, skin sensitisation, and reproductive toxicity for which the Directive foresees that the 2013 deadline could be further extended in case alternative and validated methods would not be available in time. The selected experts were asked to analyse the status and prospects of alternative methods and to provide a scientifically sound estimate of the time necessary to achieve full replacement of animal testing. In summary, the experts confirmed that it will take at least another 7-9 years for the replacement of the current in vivo animal tests used for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients for skin sensitisation. However, the experts were also of the opinion that alternative methods may be able to give hazard information, i.e. to differentiate between sensitisers and non-sensitisers, ahead of 2017. This would, however, not provide the complete picture of what is a safe exposure because the relative potency of a sensitiser would not be known. For toxicokinetics, the timeframe was 5-7 years to develop the models still lacking to predict lung absorption and renal/biliary excretion, and even longer to integrate the methods to fully replace the animal toxicokinetic models. For the systemic toxicological endpoints of repeated dose toxicity, carcinogenicity and reproductive toxicity, the time horizon for full replacement could not be estimated.

Although adoption of skin sensitization in vivo assays for hazard identification is likely to be successful in the next few years, this does not replace their use in potency prediction. Notably, measurement of potency of skin sensitizers in the local lymph node assay has been important. However, this local lymph node assay potency measure has not been formally assessed against a range of substances of known human sensitizing potential, because the latter is lacking. Accordingly, criteria for human data have been established that characterize 6 categories of human sensitizing potency, with 1 the most potent and 5 the least potent; category 6 represents true nonsensitizers. The literature has been searched, and 131 chemicals assigned into these categories according to their intrinsic potency judged only by the available human information. The criteria and data set generated provide a basis for examination of the capacity of nonanimal approaches for the determination of human sensitization potency.

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The goal of eliminating animal testing in the predictive identification of chemicals with the intrinsic ability to cause skin sensitization is an important target, the attainment of which has recently been brought into even sharper relief by the EU Cosmetics Directive and the requirements of the REACH legislation. Development of alternative methods requires that the chemicals used to evaluate and validate novel approaches comprise not only confirmed skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers but also substances that span the full chemical mechanistic spectrum associated with skin sensitization. To this end, a recently published database of more than 200 chemicals tested in the mouse local lymph node assay (LLNA) has been examined in relation to various chemical reaction mechanistic domains known to be associated with sensitization. It is demonstrated here that the dataset does cover the main reaction mechanistic domains. In addition, it is shown that assignment to a reaction mechanistic domain is a critical first step in a strategic approach to understanding, ultimately on a quantitative basis, how chemical properties influence the potency of skin sensitizing chemicals. This understanding is necessary if reliable non-animal approaches, including (quantitative) structure-activity relationships (Q)SARs, read-across, and experimental chemistry based models, are to be developed.

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In spite of the improved awareness of the potential for nickel, cobalt and chromium to cause skin allergy, the incidence of sensitization to them is generally on the increase, especially for nickel. We review data from the literature and industry on transition metal contamination of consumer products and assess the hazard to man. Consumer products are defined as personal care items and detergent/cleaning products used regularly in domestic work. The analytical data demonstrate that consumer products are a relatively minor source of contact with nickel, cobalt or chromium. The traces found in consumer products will not be the primary cause of sensitization to these metals: levels will be too low and exposure too brief. A person sensitized to these metals has many other more significant sources of daily contact such as earrings, jewelry and metal objects. It is therefore necessary to focus on decreasing the high exposure to these transition metals from other sources rather than on possible trace amounts found in consumer products. Current good manufacturing practice ensures that trace nickel, cobalt and chromium concentrations in consumer products are less than 5 ppm of each metal. It is recommended that this be accepted as a standard for maximum concentrations and that the target should be to achieve concentrations as low as 1 ppm.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is a common occupational and environmental health issue. In common with other forms of allergy the disease progresses in two stages; an initial phase during which sensitization is acquired, followed later (after subsequent exposure to the same chemical allergen) by elicitation of a cutaneous inflammatory reaction. The development of skin sensitization is associated with, and requires, the activation and clonal expansion of allergen responsive T lymphocytes and it is these cells that orchestrate the cutaneous allergic reaction. In recent years, much has been learned of the characteristics of immune responses to skin sensitizing chemicals and of the roles played by dendritic cells, cytokines and chemokines. Some of the more interesting cellular and molecular mechanisms are reviewed briefly in this article. A more detailed appreciation of responses induced by chemical allergens has in turn facilitated the design of novel approaches to the toxicological evaluation of skin sensitization. Real progress has been made, not only in the development of improved methods for hazard identification and characterization, but also in the application of new paradigms for risk assessment. The newer methods now available and the opportunities that exist for further advances are considered. Finally, progress has been made in the characterization of skin sensitization in humans and in the clinical management of ACD. This article seeks to consider skin sensitization and ACD in holistic fashion, bridging experimental observations with clinical disease and basic mechanisms with practical toxicology.

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