To develop beach engineering, the submerged structure’s primary physical functions have to be understood. This study focuses on submerged structures in order to understand the strategy of reduced wave energy, stabilizing the shoreline and not generating erosion or adversely modifying coastal processes. Important developments have been made since the 1990s, taking into account the functions of recreational amenity. However, non-dimensional models cannot explain the physical mechanisms that generate accretion or erosion morphological features in the lee of the submerged structure. The present study aims to collaborate with the understanding of the mechanism of beach response to a submerged structure. For this, 26 surveys were made using topographic, Lagrangian, and Eulerian hydrodynamic measures during one seasonal cycle of a beach system from Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) with a natural submerged reef or rocky bank V-shape in the plan. This beach system is energetic and intermediate when referring to wave energy conditions and beach states, respectively. The wave breaking vector system on the rocky bank’s geometry was examined in the intermediate and dissipative beach morphodynamic organization. The variability of the wave breaking vector system determines the establishment, deformation, and erosion features in the lee of the structure. During high-energy waves, the submerged structure’s hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes are transparent. When the submerged structure combines with the dissipative beach state, the surfing wave conditions are improved. These results provide the dimensional and positional references for an engineering proposal for a beach system.
<p>Coastal zones are low-lying areas that support highly dynamic and productive ecosystems of great ecological and economic value. Anthropic and natural processes coexist and interact between them mediated by environmental fluctuations. The nature of coastal areas makes them susceptible to climate change effects. For instance, sea level rise and the increased frequency and intensity of storms and surges have a great impact on the morphodynamics of sandy beaches. Understanding how these environments behave under today's changing conditions is key to proposing efficient adaptation measures and management strategies.&#160; However, the wide range of modulators involved in beach morphodynamics, and their high dynamism, make the integrated monitoring of these areas costly (time, human, and&#160; economic resources) and challenging. Despite technological improvements and the increased availability of low-cost instrumentation and data (video monitoring systems, satellites&#8217; observations, near-real-time oceanographic instruments/data), long-term and high-frequency data-sets, including morphological and wave data, remain scarce.&#160;</p><p>Since 2011, the ICTS SOCIB (Balearic Islands Coastal Observing and forecasting System) has been monitoring three beaches of the Balearic Islands through the deployment of Modular Beach Integral Monitoring Systems (MOBIMS). MOBIMS aims to fill the gap of high-resolution and continuous beach monitoring by combining data from hybrid field surveys-remote sensing systems. MOBIMS is composed of low-cost open-source video monitoring imagery (SIRENA), Acoustic Wave and Current Profilers (AWAC), meteorological stations, and bi-annual high-resolution bathymetries and topographic surveys, as well as sediment granulometry.&#160;</p><p>In this study, we present the analysis of the Son Bou Beach (Menorca, Spain) MOBIMS dataset generated over the last 12 years (2011-2022). The analysis focuses on characterizing the response of Son Bou beach to extreme events (<em>i.e., storms), </em>by means of shoreline position-change detection. Over 170 shorelines were derived from the SIRENA video-monitoring system, and meteorological and oceanographic data corresponding to 150 coastal storms were collected. The most energetic events eroded the beach, moving the shoreline landward significantly; but, accretive storms were also found, increasing the width of the beach. The presence of a coastal lagoon and the well-preserved dunes was crucial to understanding the beach response and its behaviour under different wave conditions.&#160;</p>
Systematic and sustained high quality measurements of nearshore waves and beach morphology are crucial to understand morphodynamic processes that determine beach evolution, to unravel the effects of global warming on sandy coasts and thus improve forecasting models. In 2011 a comprehensive beach monitoring program, the first in the Mediterranean Sea, started at Cala Millor Beach on the island of Mallorca (Spain). The aim was to provide long-term datasets of near-shore morphodynamics in a carbonate sandy micro-tidal and semi-embayed beach fronted by a Posidonia oceanica seagrass meadow. We present our morphological and hydrodynamical dataset of Cala Millor covering more than a decade. The dataset includes topobathymetries, shoreline positions obtained from video cameras, meteorological parameters from a weather station, currents, as well as waves and sea level from ADCP measurements and sediment size. This free and unrestricted archived dataset can be used to support the modelling of erosion-deposition patterns, calibrate beach evolution models, and as a result to propose adaptation and mitigation actions under different global change scenarios.
Abstract. Sandy beaches are ever-changing environments, as they experience constant reshaping due to the external forces of tides, waves, and winds. The shoreline position, which marks the boundary between water and sand, holds great significance in the fields of coastal geomorphology, coastal engineering, and coastal management. It is crucial to understand how beaches evolve over time, but high-resolution shoreline datasets are scarce, and establishing monitoring programs can be costly. To address this, we present a new dataset of shorelines for five Spanish sandy beaches, located in contrasting environments, derived from the CoastSnap citizen-science shoreline monitoring program. The use of citizen science is an increasingly strong current within environmental projects that allows both community awareness and the collection of large amounts of data that are otherwise difficult to obtain. This dataset includes a total of 1721 individual shorelines composed of points every 3 m-spaced points alongshore, accompanied by additional attributes, such as elevation value and acquisition date, allowing for easy comparisons. Our dataset offers a unique perspective on how citizen science can provide reliable datasets that are useful for management and geomorphological studies. The shoreline dataset, along with relevant metadata, is available at https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.8056415 (González-Villanueva et al., 2023b).
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