To develop beach engineering, the submerged structure’s primary physical functions have to be understood. This study focuses on submerged structures in order to understand the strategy of reduced wave energy, stabilizing the shoreline and not generating erosion or adversely modifying coastal processes. Important developments have been made since the 1990s, taking into account the functions of recreational amenity. However, non-dimensional models cannot explain the physical mechanisms that generate accretion or erosion morphological features in the lee of the submerged structure. The present study aims to collaborate with the understanding of the mechanism of beach response to a submerged structure. For this, 26 surveys were made using topographic, Lagrangian, and Eulerian hydrodynamic measures during one seasonal cycle of a beach system from Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) with a natural submerged reef or rocky bank V-shape in the plan. This beach system is energetic and intermediate when referring to wave energy conditions and beach states, respectively. The wave breaking vector system on the rocky bank’s geometry was examined in the intermediate and dissipative beach morphodynamic organization. The variability of the wave breaking vector system determines the establishment, deformation, and erosion features in the lee of the structure. During high-energy waves, the submerged structure’s hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes are transparent. When the submerged structure combines with the dissipative beach state, the surfing wave conditions are improved. These results provide the dimensional and positional references for an engineering proposal for a beach system.
ResumoAtravés de fundeios oceanográficos (correntômetro/ondógrafo eletromagnético S4 ADW InterOcean) nas isóbatas de 18 m e 30 m na plataforma interna rasa paranaense foram medidos durante 14 meses dados de ondas (Jul/2009 -Nov/2010, obtendo-se uma série capaz de mostrar a variabilidade intra-anual. Um número suficiente de tempestades foi identificado na série de dados para poder compreender o clima de ondas do Estado do Paraná. A predominância direcional da incidência de ondas na plataforma interna rasa paranaense foi SSE com diminuição da altura significativa de ondas dos 30 m aos 18 m de profundidade. O estado de vagas predominou sobre o estado de swell durante as temporadas registradas pelo presente estudo. Os sistemas meteorológicos mais importantes para a geração de eventos extremos e dos principais estados de swell ou eventos de alta energia de ondas foram os ciclones subtropicais.Palavras-chave: clima de ondas; pista de ventos; espectro de ondas; ciclones subtropicais. AbstractTwo years of wave data (Jul/2009 -Nov/2010) were recorded by Interocean S4 ADW's from the inner (18m) and outer (30m) continental shelfin the Paraná State. A sufficient of data were obtained in order to characterize the wave sazonality and the record of several storms events. The main direction wave propagation on the inner shelf was SSE. Short period waves predominated over the swells with a significant loss of wave height at 18 m compared with the data at 30 m. The most important weather systems for the generation of high-energy wave events was the subtropical cyclones.
The current status of multipurpose surfing reef development is evolving. Projects worldwide are in various stages of completion and lessons have been learned from each. This paper considers continuing developments in reef design and reef engineering construction, and the need for blending of the two aspects.
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