Purpose: To investigate the penetration enhancing effect of two polysorbates -polyoxyethylene 20

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Background: This study aimed to formulate a water-in-oil emulsion (formulation) of Terminalia chebula versus its vehicle (base) as control, and investigate its effects on skin melanin, skin erythema, skin moisture content, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Material and Methods: Base containing no active material, and formulation containing 5% concentrated extract of T. chebula, were developed. Different stability parameters were monitored at 8, 25, and 40 °C, as well as 40 °C + 75% relative humidity, for a period of 4 weeks. It was concluded that the creams remained stable at all storage conditions. Both base and formulation were applied to the cheeks of human volunteers for a period of 8 weeks. Different skin parameters were monitored every week to measure any effect produced by these creams. Results: Changes in TEWL produced by base and formulation were insignificant (p > 0.05) with respect to time while significant (p ≤ 0.05) with respect to base and formulation. The skin moisture content increased after the application of formulation throughout the study period; this effect was insignificant (p > 0.05) with respect to time while significant (p ≤ 0.05) with respect to base and formulation. Both base and formulation showed insignificant (p > 0.05) effects on skin melanin content with respect to time. Skin erythema was reduced by the formulation. Both base and formulation produced statistically insignificant (p > 0.05) effects on skin sebum. Conclusion: Both creams were aesthetic with respect to sensory evaluation. T. chebula topical cream showed a positive rejuvenating effect on human skin. Hopefully, this study will encourage more attention towards the research and utilization of herbal medicines.

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Emulgel is a new innovatory technique for drug development permitting controlled release of active ingredients for topical administration. We report a stable emulgel of 4% Piper nigrum extract (PNE) prepared using 80% ethanol. The PNE-loaded formulation had an antioxidant activity of 84% and tyrosinase inhibition was 82%. Prepared formulation rendered spherical-shaped globules with high zeta potential (−45.5 mV) indicative of a stable system. Total phenolic contents were 58.01 mg GAE/g of dry extract whereas total flavonoid content was 52.63 mg QE/g of dry extract. Sun protection factor for PNE-loaded emulgel was 7.512 and formulation was stable without any evidence of physical and chemical changes following 90 days of storage. Gas chromatography-mass spectroscopy (GC-MS) revealed seventeen bioactive compounds in the PNE including monoterpenoids, triterpenoids, a tertiary alcohol, fatty acid esters, and phytosterols. In silico studies of GC-MS identified compounds show higher binding affinity in comparison to standard kojic acid indicating tyrosinase inhibition. It can be concluded that PNE-loaded emulgel had prominent antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibition and can be utilized as a promising topical system for anti-aging skin formulation.

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