What kinds of implications does 'design for recycling' have for the designer's role and practice in the context of textiles and fashion? In this paper, we approach this question by discussing the problem of low textile recycling rates alongside a disconnection between clothing design and textile recycling. Qualitative interviews with design, sorting and recycling experts were conducted to gather insights into the challenges and requirements of closed-loop recycling. The research findings underline the importance of an active dialogue between these stakeholder groups, which calls for novel ways of sharing knowledge of the latest advancements in sorting and recycling technologies. In addition, the study brings forth the priority order of design considerations and proposes 'design for sorting' as a new strategy for textile circularity. The paper contributes to the ongoing discussion on design practice in a circular fashion system and the required changes in the mind-set of the entire industry.
The way in which the current fashion industry operates needs to fundamentally change. In this endeavour, designers are considered central figures throughout the sustainable fashion literature. However, too little is known about clothing designers’ practical contributions to sustainability. Therefore, this study investigates how sustainability is integrated into design practices in sustainable-minded clothing companies and determines the role of clothing designers in this respect. A mixed-method study was conducted based on a sequential exploratory strategy. The data were collected in two stages: a preliminary phase based on five expert interviews and a survey phase, which involved 31 clothing designers from around Europe. The data analysis was also divided into two phases: thematic analysis of the interviews and content analysis of the survey. The findings indicate that the sustainable design practices within these companies predominantly focus on material choices and aspects that support product longevity. Yet, there is little empirical evidence to support claims regarding garments’ true longevity. Knowledge regarding materials, recycling and best practices is also lacking among clothing designers. Lack of knowledge and company strategies frequently dictate and restrict the design work. This further highlights the fact that designers’ opportunities to influence environmental and social change are more limited than earlier literature suggests.
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