Addressing the Dialogue between Design, Sorting and Recycling in a Circular Economy

Abstract

What kinds of implications does 'design for recycling' have for the designer's role and practice in the context of textiles and fashion? In this paper, we approach this question by discussing the problem of low textile recycling rates alongside a disconnection between clothing design and textile recycling. Qualitative interviews with design, sorting and recycling experts were conducted to gather insights into the challenges and requirements of closed-loop recycling. The research findings underline the importance of an active dialogue between these stakeholder groups, which calls for novel ways of sharing knowledge of the latest advancements in sorting and recycling technologies. In addition, the study brings forth the priority order of design considerations and proposes 'design for sorting' as a new strategy for textile circularity. The paper contributes to the ongoing discussion on design practice in a circular fashion system and the required changes in the mind-set of the entire industry.

How fashion can achieve sustainable development through a circular economy and stakeholder engagement: A systematic literature review

“…• Closing resource loops: this cluster includes CF practices implemented with an aim to keep materials in the economy, Closed-loop recycling, a process where unwanted resources and products are collected, recycled, and then used again to make the same product it came from, and thus to create a circular flow of resources • Recycling for manufacturing a same product type (e.g., recycling polyester fabrics to polyester yarn for the same fashion item production) 42 (44.7%) Al Faruque et al, 2019;Bloomfield & Borstrock, 2018;Bocken et al, 2017;Bukhari et al, 2018;Cattermole, 2018;Corvellec & Stål, 2019;Daddi et al, 2019;do Amaral et al, 2018;Earley, 2017;Earley, 2019;Fischer & Pascucci, 2017;Franco, 2017;Goldsworthy & Ellams, 2019;Haslinger et al, 2019;Holtström et al, 2019;Hu et al, 2018;Hussain, 2018;Hvass & Pedersen, 2019;Karell & Niinimäki, 2019;Koszewska, 2018;Leal Filho et al, 2019;Määttänen et al, 2019;…”

“…In "internal barriers," only one cluster management barrier (14, 12.8%) was identified. In the management barriers cluster, lack of transparency for managing material circularity, management's decisions that prioritize profit growth over sustainability, management's lack of power to influence other fashion stakeholders to participate in their CF missions, and the decentralization of fashion designers in Bloomfield & Borstrock, 2018;Bocken et al, 2017;Bukhari et al, 2018;Cattermole, 2018;Daddi et al, 2019;do Amaral et al, 2018;Franco, 2017;Holtström et al, 2019;Hussain, 2018;Karell & Niinimäki, 2019;Kjaer et al, 2019;Koszewska, 2018;Leal Filho et al, 2019;Norris, 2019b;Pal et al, 2019;Peirson-Smith & Evans, 2017;Piribauer & Bartl, 2019;Popescu, 2018;Sandvik & Stubbs, 2019;Singh et al, 2019;Smith et al, 2017;Valentine et al, 2017;Weber...…”

“…• Lack of knowledgeable designers to balance sustainability, aesthetics, functionality, and production cost in fashion product design 19 (17.4%) Bocken et al, 2017;Fischer & Pascucci, 2017;Goldsworthy & Ellams, 2019;Han et al, 2017;Hussain, 2018;Karell & Niinimäki, 2019;Kjaer et al, 2019;Koszewska, 2018;Leal Filho et al, 2019;Moorhouse & Moorhouse, 2017;Norris, 2019a;Pedersen et al, 2019;Peirson-Smith & Evans, 2017;Sandin & Peters, 2018;Shaw & Williams, 2018;Stål & Corvellec, 2018;Todeschini et al, 2017; (Continues) Bocken et al, 2017;Camacho-Otero et al, 2019;Daddi et al, 2019;Diddi & Yan, 2019;Holtström et al, 2019;Hussain, 2018;…”

“…• Lack of capability from policy makers in collecting sufficient data for making applicable and feasible CE-driving policies as key barriers 6 (5.5%) Bocken et al, 2017;Daddi et al, 2019;Leal Filho et al, 2019;Norris, 2019a;Pal et al, 2019;Weber, 2019 Internal ( • Other corporate missions that are in higher priority than CE missions 14 (12.9%) Bocken et al, 2017;Franco, 2017;Han et al, 2017;Hussain, 2018;Hvass & Pedersen, 2019;Karell & Niinimäki, 2019;Norris, 2019b;Pal et al, 2019;Pedersen et al, 2019;Sandvik & Stubbs, 2019;Staicu & Pop, 2018;Stål & Corvellec, 2018;Tunn et al, 2019; Total 109 (100%)…”

“…• Obtain more knowledge on evaluating economic and/or environmental impacts of design plans 16 (16.2%) Bocken et al, 2017;Earley, 2019;Goldsworthy & Ellams, 2019;Hall & Velez-Colby, 2018;Han et al, 2017;Holtström et al, 2019;Hussain, 2018;Karell & Niinimäki, 2019;Moorhouse & Moorhouse, 2017;Pal et al, 2019;Pedersen et al, 2019;Popescu, 2018;Raebild & Bang, 2017;Staicu & Pop, 2018;Stål & Corvellec, 2018; Both internal and external (33, 33.3%)…”