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Results could designate this molecule as a promising skin ageing prevention cosmetic agent. Of note, some of these effects could be mediated by protein O-glycosylation and interaction of crocin with osidic receptors of keratinocytes.

Epidermal keratinocytes are critical targets for UV-induced genotoxicity as their transformation by sunlight overexposure can lead to skin cancer such as basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC). Therefore, assessment of photoprotection should involve early markers associated with DNA photodamage. Here, the same normal human keratinocytes either in monoculture (KC) or in full thickness reconstructed skin (RS) were compared with respect to their response to simulated solar UV (SSUV) exposure. Irradiation conditions (spectral power distribution and doses) were designed to mimic environmental zenithal UV from sunlight. At doses where survival was higher than 80%, comet assay showed more single strand breaks (SSB) and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPD) in keratinocytes in RS than in KC one hour post-exposure. The transcription factor p53 was activated in both models. While in KC p53 accumulation displayed a linear dose-dependency up to 24 h post-exposure, in RS it followed a bell-shaped profile and reverted to its basal rate. QRT-PCR demonstrated that among genes controlled by p53, P21 and MDM2 were clearly induced by SSUV in KC, whereas GADD45 expression was strongly and almost exclusively up-regulated in RS. Nrf2-dependent antioxidant genes (Ferritin light chain, NQO1) were only induced in RS, yet at low doses for NQO1. In vitro models such as KC or RS allowing the development of quantitative methodologies should be used as surrogates for in vivo tests assessing photogenotoxicity.

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Objective This study aimed to establish a predictive in vitro method for assessing the photoprotective properties of sunscreens using a reconstructed full‐thickness skin model. Materials and Methods A full‐thickness skin model reconstructed with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes isolated from Chinese skin was exposed to daily UV radiation (DUVR). We examined the transcriptomic response, identifying genes for which expression was modulated by DUVR in a dose‐dependent manner. We then validated the methodology for efficacy evaluation of different sunscreens formulas. Results The reconstructed skin model was histologically consistent with human skin, and upon DUVR exposure, the constituent fibroblasts and keratinocytes exhibited transcriptomic alterations in pathways associated with oxidative stress, inflammation and extracellular matrix remodelling. When used to evaluate sunscreen protection on the model, the observed level of protection from UV‐induced gene expression was consistent with the corresponding protection factors determined clinically and allowed for statistical ranking of sunscreen efficacy. Conclusions Within this study we show that quantification of gene modulation within the reconstructed skin model is a biologically relevant approach with sensitivity and predictability to evaluate photoprotection products.