Canadian subscribers should add GST. Discounts are available for group subscriptions, GIA alumni, and current GIA students. To purchase print subscriptions, visit store.gia.edu or contact Customer Service. For institutional rates, contact Customer Service. Database CoverageG&G is abstracted in Thomson Reuters products (Current Contents: Physical, Chemical & Earth Sciences and Science Citation Index-Expanded, including the Web of Knowledge) and other databases. For a complete list of sources abstracting G&G, go to gia.edu/gems-gemology, and click on "Publication Information." Manuscript SubmissionsGems & Gemology, a peer-reviewed journal, welcomes the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Please see the Author Guidelines at gia.edu/gemsgemology or contact the Managing Editor. Letters on articles published in G&G are also welcome. Please note that Field Reports, Lab Notes, Gem News International, Micro-World, and Charts are not peerreviewed sections but do undergo technical and editorial review.
This article traces the use of pearls from antiquity to the initial appearance of cultured pearls in the 1920s. The first section touches on the early fascination with pearls as revealed througll historical literature, including Cleopatra's pearls, Roman pearl jewelry, and medicinal pearl recipes o j t h e Middle Ages. During the ~e n a i s s~n c~, Spain's exploration of the N e w Worldresulted in the discovery of vast quantitiesof valuable pearls that were eventually spread throughout Europe. Queen Elizabeth 1's magnificent collection of pearls and the intriguing baroque pearl figurines of the later Renaissance are also discussed. T h e article concludes w i t h a review of pearl fashion from 1800 to 1930, including delicate Victorian seed-pearl jewelry, Queen Alexandra's dog-collar chokers, and Art Deco pearl-inlaid jewelry.
The Art Nouveau movement, with its startling concepts in design, swept through Europe and the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The asymmetrical whiplash line which typifies Art Nouvem was manifested in art, architecture, metalwork, textiles, and interior design. Perhaps its most concentrated and refined expression can be seen in the spectacular Art Nouveau jewels, which incorporated more unusual gems and gem materials such as moonstones, horn, ivory, opal, turquoise, and tourmalines into a host of fanciful designs. This article discusses the origins of Art Nouveau and outlines the distinctive interpretations and contributions made b y significant Art Nouveau jewelers.
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