Huge amounts of chitin and chitosans can be found in the biosphere as important constituents of the exoskeleton of many organisms and as waste by worldwide seafood companies. Presently, politicians, environmentalists, and industrialists encourage the use of these marine polysaccharides as a renewable source developed by alternative eco-friendly processes, especially in the production of regular cosmetics. The aim of this review is to outline the physicochemical and biological properties and the different bioextraction methods of chitin and chitosan sources, focusing on enzymatic deproteinization, bacteria fermentation, and enzymatic deacetylation methods. Thanks to their biodegradability, non-toxicity, biocompatibility, and bioactivity, the applications of these marine polymers are widely used in the contemporary manufacturing of biomedical and pharmaceutical products. In the end, advanced cosmetics based on chitin and chitosans are presented, analyzing different therapeutic aspects regarding skin, hair, nail, and oral care. The innovative formulations described can be considered excellent candidates for the prevention and treatment of several diseases associated with different body anatomical sectors.
(1) Background: Açai berry extract is known for its high content in polyphenols and thus is a promising ingredient for cosmetic antiaging formulations; (2) Methods: In this study, the açai extract was firstly evaluated for its total phenol content (Folin Ciocalteau essay) and antioxidant activity (radical scavenging activity—DPPH; radical cation scavenging capacity—ABTS; ferric reducing antioxidant capacity—FRAP). Next, the açai extract was included in an O/W formulation and again was evaluated for its polyphenol content and antioxidant capacity. The formulation was tested for general characteristics, physicochemical properties and microbial stability. The proliferative effect on human immortalized fibroblasts was evaluated by the MTT essay, while TAC assay served to confirm that fibroblasts are protected from UV irradiation. The irritant potential was verified on 20 volunteers. The study concluded with the assessment of the sensorial characteristics of the cosmetic formulation; (3) Results: The pure açai extract exhibited high polyphenol content and antioxidant activity, and these characteristics were preserved in the O/W formulation as well. The O/W cosmetic formulation proved to be stable under accelerated and normal conditions, and the preservatives were successful in challenging the resistance against microbial contamination. The mean irritant potential was zero in all volunteers, and the cosmetic formulation showed a good sensorial profile; (4) Conclusions: Açai extract is an interesting ingredient for cosmetic antiaging formulations.
The purpose of this work was the optimization of the extraction from spent coffee grounds, specifically 100% Arabica coffee blends, using a desirability approach. Spent coffees were recovered after the preparation of the espresso coffee under the typical conditions used in coffee bars with a professional machine. Spent coffee was subjected to different extraction procedures in water: by changing the extraction temperature (60, 80, or 100 °C) and the solvent extraction volume (10, 20, 30 mL for 1 g of coffee) and by maintaining constant the extraction time (30 min). The ranges of the process parameters, as well as the solvent to be used, were established by running preliminary experiments not reported here. The variables of interest for the experimental screening design were the content of caffeine, trigonelline, and nicotinic acid, quantitatively determined from regression lines of standard solutions of known concentrations by a validated HPLC-VWD method. Since solvent extraction volumes and temperatures were revealed to be the most significant process variables, for the optimization of the extraction process, an approach based on Response Surface Methodology (RSM) was considered. In particular, a Box-Wilson Central Composite Design, commonly named central composite design (CCD), was used to find the optimal conditions of the extraction process. Moreover, the desirability approach was then applied to maximize the extraction efficiency by searching the optimal values (or at least the best compromise solution) for all three response variables simultaneously. Successively, the best extract, obtained in a volume of 20 mL of water at an extraction temperature of 80 °C, was analyzed for total phenol content (TPC) through the Folin–Ciocalteu assay, and the antioxidant capacities (AC) through the trolox equivalent (TE) antioxidant capacity (DPPH), ferric-ion reducing antioxidant parameter (FRAP), and radical cation scavenging activity and reducing power (ABTS). The TPC and the AC for spent coffee were high and comparable to the results obtained in previous similar studies. Then, the extract was evaluated by inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP–MS), revealing that potassium was the most abundant element, followed by phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, sodium, and sulfur, while very low content in heavy metals was observed. Preliminary in vitro assays in keratinocyte HaCaT cells were carried out to assess the safety, in terms of cytotoxicity of spent coffee, and results showed that cell viability depends on the extract concentration: cell viability is unmodified up to a concentration of 0.3 mg/mL, over which it becomes cytotoxic for the cells. Spent coffee extract at 0.03 and 0.3 mg/mL showed the ability to reduce intracellular reactive oxygen species formation induced by hydrogen peroxide in HaCaT cells, suggesting its antioxidant activity at intracellular levels.
This project aimed to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to Crocus sativus L. by-product (flowers without stigmas i.e., tepals composed of petals and sepals) to recover extracts with high antioxidant capacity and polyphenol content, to be used in cosmetic products. Flowers grown in two different Italian regions (Sample 1—Alba in Piemonte, north of Italy and Sample 2—Sibillini in Marche, centre of Italy) were subjected for the first time to different eco-friendly microwave-mediated green solvents extractions (MGSE) andquali-quantitative determination in antioxidant molecules. Firstly, the extracts from Sample 1 were selected according to their total phenol content (TPC) by Folin–Ciocalteu’s assay and antioxidant capacity (AC) by spectrophotometric assays. Then, according to preliminary results, MGSE carried out in ethanol 70°, water, and glycerin were selected as the most performing methods and applied to both Samples 1 and 2. The best results were obtained using green solvents, such as water or ethanol 70°, for the samples coming from Marche. The identification and quantification of phenolic compounds, belonging to anthocyanins and flavonols classes, was performed by using UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS. Concerning flavonols content, the most abundant analyte is kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and the extract in water from Sample 1 showed the higher amount of flavonols, reaching the concentration of 25.35 mg of kaempferol 3-O-glucoside equivalent per gram of tepals DW of raw material. Among anthocyanins, the most abundant was delphinidin 3,5-O-diglucoside and the high concentration of anthocyanin was detected in water and ethanol extract. Two new compounds, myricetin-di-glucoside and primflasine, were identified for the first time in Crocus sativus L. by-product by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). The green batches obtained by extraction were thus characterized and evaluated for their biological potential and safety in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The extracts were not cytotoxic up to 0.03 mg/mL. The water and ethanol 70° extracts were the most effective in counteracting oxidative stress induced by H2O2 and UVA exposure and reduced cytotoxicity induced by UVB exposure. The water extract was also able to significantly reduce cytotoxicity induced by sodium dodecyl sulphate-induced damage. Taken together, these results suggest a potential use of these waste materials as cosmeceutical preparations such as antiaging, and as anti-skin irritation formulation by-products.
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