Despite sensitive skin being highly prevalent, no consensus on the definition and pathomechanism of sensitive skin exists. Here we report the results of a systematic literature review of diagnostic methods for sensitive skin at clinical, histological and biophysical levels. A systematic search revealed 27 out of 1,701 articles which we appraised in detail. Impaired skin barrier function and increased vascular reactivity are most often associated with sensitive skin. We identified key reasons causing an ambiguity around the sensitive skin phenomenon. We propose using standardized selection methods of subjects by a multifactorial questionnaire spanning a range of provocations, including those of chemical, mechanical and environmental origin, followed by clinical, histological and top-notch biophysical measurements. This could lead to a breakthrough in the understanding of the sensitive skin phenomenon, fueling advances of biomedical and dermatological science. © 2014 S. Karger AG, Basel

Background/Aims: Sensitive skin (SS), a frequently reported condition in the Western world, has been suggested to be underlined by an impaired skin barrier. The aim of this study was to investigate the skin barrier molecular composition in SS subjects using confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRS), and to compare it with that of non-SS (NSS) individuals as well as atopic dermatitis (AD) and allergic rhinoconjunctivitis (AR) subjects, who frequently report SS. Methods: Subjects with SS (n = 29), NSS (n = 30), AD (n = 11), and AR (n = 27) were included. Stratum corneum (SC) thickness, water, ceramides/fatty acids, and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) were measured by CRS along with transepidermal water loss and capacitance on the ventral forearm, thenar, and cheek. Sebum levels were additionally measured on the forearm and cheek. Results: No differences between SS and NSS subjects were found regarding SC thickness, water, and NMF content, yet a trend towards lower ceramides/fatty acids was observed in the cheek. Compared to AD subjects, the SS group showed higher ceramides/fatty acid content in the forearm, whereas no differences emerged with AR. The correlation of macroscopic biophysical techniques and CRS was weak,yetCRS confirmed the well-known lower content of NMF and water, and thinner SC in subjects with filaggrin mutations. Conclusion: The skin barrier in SS is not impaired in terms of SC thickness, water, NMF, and ceramides/fatty acid content. The failure of biophysical techniques to follow alterations in the molecular composition of the skin barrier revealed by CRS emphasizes a strong need in sensitive and specific tools for in vivo skin barrier analysis.

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TAP measurements, especially IL-1α, IL-1RA, and hBD-1, from the skin surface were sensitive enough for monitoring dynamic changes in the skin in the two models of skin perturbation. We conclude that TAP holds promise for non-invasively unraveling the dynamics of processes related to skin perturbation and repair.

Sensitive skin (SS) is a widespread condition, but still not completely understood. To identify risk factors that increase the likelihood of SS, 258 women aged between 20 and 65 years old and resident in the Netherlands were surveyed by questionnaire, which included questions on sociodemographic characteristics (age group, Fitzpatrick skin type, hormonal status), health state (atopic predisposition, skin diseases) and lifestyle habits (history of smoking and of sun exposure, frequency of physical exercise). Analysis of the responses confirmed that atopic predisposition, presence of skin diseases and Fitzpatrick skin types I and II are risk factors significantly associated with SS. In addition, as current or past smoking and a history of low sun exposure showed a trend to increase the likelihood of reporting SS, we suggest that the potential role of lifestyle factors in the onset or exacerbation of SS should be investigated further.

Skin barrier function, confined to the stratum corneum, is traditionally evaluated using established, noninvasive biophysical methods like transepidermal water loss, capacitance and conductance. However, these methods neither measure skin molecular composition nor its structure, hindering the actual causes of skin barrier change or impairment. At the same time, confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRS) can directly measure skin molecular composition and structure and has proven itself to be a powerful technique for biomolecular analysis. The aims of this literature review were to evaluate noninvasive biophysical methods in view of CRS and to outline a direction towards more specific and informative skin measurement methods. We address this by investigating, for the first time, the relation between in vivo assessment of the skin barrier using indirect biophysical methods and the actual skin composition and structure as given by CRS, and emphasize the high potential of CRS for dermatology and cosmetic sciences. CRS acceptance in these fields will require close collaboration between dermatologists, skin scientists and spectroscopy experts towards simplifying the technology and creating robust, rapid, easy-to-use and less expensive CRS applications.