Hydrangea serrata (THUNB.) SER. (Hydrangeaceae) leaves have been used as herbal teas in Korea and Japan. The objective of this study was to identify anti-photoaging compounds in aqueous EtOH extract prepared from leaves of H. serrata and their effects on UVB-irradiated Hs68 human foreskin fibroblasts. Phytochemical study on H. serrata leaves led to the isolation and characterization of ten compounds: hydrangenol, thunberginol A, thunberginol C, hydrangenoside A, hydrangenoside C, cudrabibenzyl A, 2,3,4′-trihydroxystilbene, thunberginol F, quercetin 3-O-β-D-xylopyranosyl (1-2)-β-D-galactopyranoside, quercetin 3-O-β-Dxylopyranosyl (1-2)-β-D-glucopyranoside. Cudrabibenzyl A, 2,3,4′-trihydroxystilbene, quercetin 3-O-β-Dxylopyranosyl (1-2)-β-D-galactopyranoside, quercetin 3-O-β-D-xylopyranosyl (1-2)-β-D-glucopyranoside were firstly isolated from H. serrata. We estimated the effects of 10 compounds on cell viability and production of pro-collagen Type I, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and hyaluronic acid (HA) after UVB irradiation. Of these compounds, hydrangenol showed potent preventive activities against reduced cell viability and degradation of pro-collagen Type I in UVB-irradiated Hs68 fibroblasts. Hydrangenol had outstanding inductive activities on HA production. It suppressed mRNA expression levels of MMP-1, MMP-3, hyaluronidase (HYAL)-1, HYAL-2, cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8, and IL-1β in UVB-irradiated Hs68 fibroblasts. When Hs68 fibroblasts were exposed to hydrangenol after UVB irradiation, UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was suppressed. Hydrangenol also inhibited the activation of activator protein-1 (AP-1) and signal transduction and activation of transcription 1 (STAT-1) by downregulating phosphorylation of p38 and extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK). Our data indicate that hydrangenol isolated from H. serrata leaves has potential protective effects on UVB-induced skin photoaging.

Skin photoaging is mainly caused by exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, which increases expressions of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and destroys collagen fibers, consequently inducing wrinkle formation. Nutritional factors have received scientific attention for use as agents for normal skin functions. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of hot water extracts from the leaves of Hydrangea serrata (Thunb.) Ser. (WHS) against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin photoaging and to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms in human foreskin fibroblasts (Hs68) and HR-1 hairless mice. WHS recovered UVB-reduced cell viability and ameliorated oxidative stress by inhibiting intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation in Hs68 cells. WHS rescued UVB-induced collagen degradation by suppressing MMP expression, and reduced the mRNA levels of inflammatory cytokines. These anti-photoaging activities of WHS were associated with inhibition of the activator protein 1 (AP-1), signal transduction and activation of transcription 1 (STAT1), and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways. Oral administration of WHS effectively alleviated dorsal skin from wrinkle formation, epidermal thickening, collagen degradation, and skin dehydration in HR-1 hairless mice exposed to UVB. Notably, WHS suppressed UVB activation of the AP-1 and MAPK signaling pathways in dorsal mouse skin tissues. Taken together, our data indicate that WHS prevents UVB-induced skin damage due to collagen degradation and MMP activation via inactivation of MAPK/AP-1 signaling pathway.

Our previous study showed that hydrangenol isolated from Hydrangea serrata leaves exerts antiphotoaging activity in vitro. In this study, we determined its antiphotoaging effect in UVB-irradiated HR-1 hairless mice. We evaluated wrinkle formation, skin thickness, histological characteristics, and mRNA and protein expression using qRT-PCR and Western blot analysis in dorsal skins. Hydrangenol mitigated wrinkle formation, dorsal thickness, dehydration, and collagen degradation. Hydrangenol increased the expression of involucrin, filaggrin, and aquaporin-3 (AQP3) as well as hyaluronic acid (HA) production via hyaluronidase (HYAL)-1/-2 downregulation. Consistent with the recovery of collagen composition, the expression of Pro-COL1A1 was increased by hydrangenol. Matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1/-3, cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and interleukin-6 (IL-6) expression was reduced by hydrangenol. Hydrangenol attenuated the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) including ERK and p38, activator protein 1 (AP-1) subunit, and signal transduction and activation of transcription 1 (STAT1). Hydrangenol upregulated the expression of nuclear factor-E2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H quinone dehydrogenase 1 (NQO-1), glutamate cysteine ligase modifier subunit (GCLM), and glutamate cysteine ligase catalysis subunit (GCLC). Taken together, our data suggest that hydrangenol can prevent wrinkle formation by reducing MMP and inflammatory cytokine levels and increasing the expression of moisturizing factors and antioxidant genes.

Previously, we reported that the hot water extract of Hydrangea serrata leaves (WHS) and its active component, hydrangenol, possess in vitro and in vivo effects on skin wrinkles and moisturization. We conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to clinically evaluate the effect of WHS on human skin. Participants (n = 151) were randomly assigned to receive either WHS 300 mg, WHS 600 mg, or placebo, once daily for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkle, hydration, elasticity, texture, and roughness parameters were assessed at baseline and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Compared to the placebo, skin wrinkles were significantly reduced in both WHS groups after 8 and 12 weeks. In both WHS groups, five parameters (R1–R5) of skin wrinkles significantly improved and skin hydration was significantly enhanced when compared to the placebo group after 12 weeks. Compared with the placebo, three parameters of skin elasticity, including overall elasticity (R2), net elasticity (R5), and ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (R7), improved after 12 weeks of oral WHS (600 mg) administration. Changes in skin texture and roughness were significantly reduced in both WHS groups. No WHS-related adverse reactions were reported. Hence, WHS could be used as a health supplement for skin anti-aging.