The lysyl oxidases lysyl oxidase (LOX) and lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) are responsible for elastin cross-linking. It was shown recently that LOXL is essential for the elastic fibres homeostasis and for their maintenance at adult age. We first determined whether or not elastin, LOX and LOXL are less expressed during adulthood. The LOX and LOXL mRNA level, quantified by real-time reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction decreased in adult skin fibroblasts compared with fibroblasts from children. In contrast, the elastin mRNA level remains stable at all ages. The goal of this study was to induce elastogenesis at the adult age. Therefore, both enzymes, and in particular LOXL, of which expression is the most affected by age, could be targeted to induce elastogenesis in adult skin. We screened a library of about 1000 active ingredients to find activators capable to stimulate specifically the LOXL gene expression in adult dermal fibroblasts. The positive effect of selected active ingredients was confirmed on fibroblasts grown on monolayers and on dermal and skin equivalent cultures. One extract, obtained from dill (LYS'LASTINE V, Engelhard, Lyon, France), stimulates the LOXL gene expression in dermal equivalents (+64% increase in the LOXL mRNA level when compared with control). At the same time, the elastin detection is increased in dermal equivalents and under the dermal-epidermal junction of skin equivalents, without increase of the elastin mRNA. In conclusion, LOXL can be considered as a new target to reinduce elastogenesis. Its stimulation by a dill extract is correlated with increased elastin detection, suggesting an increase in elastogenesis efficiency.

Cultured skin equivalent (SE, Mimeskin) was generated by co-culturing skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes on a collagen-glycosaminoglycan-chitosan dermal substrate. In order to examine donor age effect, fibroblasts from 19- (young) or 49- (aged) year-old females were used. Culture medium was supplemented with nutrients complex containing soy extract, tomato extract, grape seed extract, white tea extract, sodium ascorbate, tocopherol acetate, zinc gluconate and BioMarine complex. Epidermal and dermal structure and composition were examined after 42 and 60 days of culture. In untreated samples, SE generated from young fibroblasts was superior to SE from aged fibroblasts in all characteristics. Those include number and regularity of keratinocyte layers, number of keratinocytes expressing proliferation marker Ki67, content of collagen type I, fibrillin-1, elastin, and SE lifespan. Effects of nutritional supplementation were observed in SE from both young and aged fibroblasts, however, those effects were more pronounced in SE from aged fibroblasts. In epidermis, the treatment increased number of keratinocyte layers and delayed epidermal senescence. The number of cells expressing Ki67 was nine folds higher than those of controls, and was similar to that of young cell SE. In dermis, the treatment increased mRNA synthesis of collagen I, fibrillin-1 and elastin. In conclusion, skin cell donor age had major important effect on formation of reconstructed SE. Imperfections in epidermal and dermal structure and composition as well as life span in SE from aged cells can be improved by supplementation with active nutrients.

Overproduction of sebum is very common and results in an undesirable oily, shiny complexion with enlarged pores. Sebum secretion is basically under the control of 5-α reductase, and more particularly under that of type 1 isozyme. But it is also highly sensitive to environmental factors such as temperature, humidity and food. Moreover, in Asia, the edicts of a flawless facial skin turn oily skin into a major concern for Asian women. We identified Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract as an interesting ingredient for reducing the oily appearance of skin thanks to its ability to reduce 5-α reductase type 1 expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes in vitro. This was confirmed ex vivo, where Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract was shown to reduce 5-α reductase activity as well as the production of squalene, one of the main components of sebum that was used as a tracer of sebum. To evaluate the efficacy of Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract at reducing sebum-related skin imperfections in vivo, we performed two different clinical studies, one in France on a panel of Caucasian volunteers and the other one in Thailand on a panel of Asian volunteers. Using instrumental techniques as well as clinical evaluation and self-evaluation, we could highlight that an O/W cosmetic formula containing 2% of Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract could visibly reduce the oily appearance of skin as well as the size of pores, thus leading to a significant improvement of complexion evenness and radiance. Overall, the results obtained were better than those observed with the same formula containing 1% of zinc gluconate, an ingredient frequently used in oily skin care products.

Human skin melanin pigmentation is regulated by systemic and local factors. According to the type of melanin produced by melanocytes, the transfer and degradation of melanosomes differ, thus accounting for most variations between ethnicities. We made the surprising observation that in a drastically changed environment, white and black phenotypes are reversible since Caucasian skin grafted onto nude mice can become black with all black phenotypic characteristics. Black xenografts differed essentially from other grafts by the levels of epidermal FGF‐2 and keratin 5. In vitro analysis confirmed that FGF‐2 directly regulates keratin 5. Interestingly, this phenomenon may be involved in human pathology. Keratin 5 mutations in Dowling–Degos Disease (DDD) have already been associated with the pheomelanosome–eumelanosome transition. In a DDD patient, keratin 5 was expressed in the basal and spinous layers, as observed in black xenografts. Furthermore, in a common age‐related hyperpigmentation disorder like senile lentigo (SL), keratin 5 distribution is also altered. In conclusion, modulation of keratin 5 expression and distribution either due to mutations or factors may account for the development of pigmentary disorders.

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