The history of cosmetics develops in parallel to the history of man, associated with fishing, hunting, and superstition in the beginning, and later with medicine and pharmacy. Over the ages, together with human progress, cosmetics have changed continuously and nowadays the cosmetic market is global and highly competitive, where terms such as quality, efficacy and safety are essential. Consumers' demands are extremely sophisticated, and thus scientific research and product development have become vital to meet them. Moreover, consumers are aware about environmental and sustainability issues, and thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. The latest tendencies of cosmetics are based on advanced research into how to interfere with skin cell aging: research includes the use of biotechnology-derived ingredients and the analysis of their effects on the biology of the cells, in terms of gene regulation, protein expression and enzymatic activity measures. In this review, we will provide some examples of cosmetic active ingredients developed through biotechnological systems, whose activity on the skin has been scientifically proved through in vitro and clinical studies.
Diclofenac, a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug, induces apoptosis on the neuroblastoma cell line SH-SY5Y through a mitochondrial dysfunction, affecting some antioxidant mechanisms. Indeed, the time- and dose-dependent increase of apoptosis is associated to an early enhancement of the reactive oxygen species (ROS). Mitochondrial superoxide dismutase (SOD2) plays a crucial role in the defence against ROS, thus protecting against several apoptotic stimuli. Diclofenac decreased the protein levels and the enzymatic activity of SOD2, without any significant impairment of the corresponding mRNA levels in the SH-SY5Y extracts. When cells were incubated with an archaeal exogenous thioredoxin, an attenuation of the diclofenac-induced apoptosis was observed, together with an increase of SOD2 protein levels. Furthermore, diclofenac impaired the mitochondrial membrane potential, leading to a release of cytochrome c. These data suggest that mitochondria are involved in the diclofenac-induced apoptosis of SH-SY5Y cells and point to a possible role of SOD2 in this process.
Background: Galectin-8 has been suggested to bind platelet FV, but the function is unknown. Results: Functional absence of galectin-8 in megakaryocytic-like cells impairs the cellular uptake of FV. Conclusion: Galectin-8 is part of the mechanism involved in the endocytosis of FV. Significance: Galectin-8 may be a novel regulator of platelet function by mediating the uptake of platelet proteins by megakaryocytes.
Psychological stress activates catecholamine production, determines oxidation processes, and alters the lipid barrier functions in the skin. Scientific evidence associated with the detoxifying effect of fruits and vegetables, the growing awareness of the long-term issues related to the use of chemical-filled cosmetics, the aging of the population, and the increase in living standards are the factors responsible for the growth of food-derived ingredients in the cosmetics market. A Ficus carica cell suspension culture extract (FcHEx) was tested in vitro (on keratinocytes cells) and in vivo to evaluate its ability to manage the stress-hormone-induced damage in skin. The FcHEx reduced the epinephrine (−43% and −24% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), interleukin 6 (−38% and −36% at the concentrations of 0.002% and 0.006%, respectively), lipid peroxide (−25%), and protein carbonylation (−50%) productions; FcHEx also induced ceramide synthesis (+150%) and ameliorated the lipid barrier performance. The in vivo experiments confirmed the in vitro test results. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL; −12.2%), sebum flow (−46.6% after two weeks and −73.8% after four weeks; on the forehead −56.4% after two weeks and −80.1% after four weeks), and skin lightness (+1.9% after two weeks and +2.7% after four weeks) defined the extract’s effects on the skin barrier. The extract of the Ficus carica cell suspension cultures reduced the transepidermal water loss, the sebum production, the desquamation, and facial skin turning to a pale color from acute stress, suggesting its role as an ingredient to fight the signs of psychological stress in the skin.
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