Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of human SC in vivo in the high wavenumber (HWN) region. In order to keep the linearity of HWN region boundaries and to not remove an informative signal from Raman spectra, a new baseline subtraction procedure has been introduced. After baseline subtraction, the HWN spectrum was deconvoluted using 10 Gaussian functions with individual chemical meanings. The results show that the hydrogen bound water molecule types contributed differently to the water diffusion process in the SC. The most concentrated double donor-double acceptor (DDAA) and single donor-single acceptor (DA) water molecule types in the SC represent more than 90% of the SC's water and mostly contribute to the water flux in the skin. Single donor-double acceptor (DAA) and weakly-bound water molecule types represent less than 10% of the SC's water content. The most tightly hydrogen bound water molecule type, DAA, reaches its maximum concentration near the skin surface and does not take part in the water diffusion process via the SC. The results show that the hydrogen bonding state of water (DA/DDAA water molecule type ratio) reaches its maximum at the depth of approx. 30% of the SC thickness, which correlates well with the maximum lateral packing order of intercellular lipids (ICL) and the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), and does not coincide with the folding/unfolding state of keratin. The NMF's contribution to the bonding of water in the SC is supposed to dominate over that of ICL.

The secondary and tertiary structure of keratin and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are of great importance regarding the water regulating functions in the stratum corneum (SC). In this in vivo study, the depth-dependent keratin conformation and its relationship to the hydrogen bonding states of water and its content in the SC, are investigated using confocal Raman microscopy. Based on the obtained depth-profiles for the β-sheet/α-helix ratio, the stability of disulphide bonds, the amount of cysteine forming disulphide bonds, the buried/exposed tyrosine and the folding/unfolding states of keratin, a “three layer model” of the SC, regarding the keratin-water-NMF interaction is proposed. At the uppermost layers (30–0% SC depth), the keratin filaments are highly folded, entailing limited water binding sites, and NMF is mostly responsible for binding water. At the intermediate layers (70–30% SC depth), the keratin filaments are unfolded, have the most water binding sites and are prone to swelling. At the bottom layers (100–80% SC depth), the water binding sites are already occupied with water and cannot swell substantially. The hydrogen bonding states of water molecules can only be explained by considering both, the molecular structure of keratin and the contribution of NMF as a holistic system.

The intercellular lipid structure of the stratum corneum (SC) plays a key role in skin barrier function. A depth profile of the intercellular lipid conformation and the lipid lateral packing order were measured in vivo in the human SC using confocal Raman microscopy. The depth profiles of the 2880 cm(-1)/2850 cm(-1) peak ratio intensity, which represent the C-H stretching and lateral packing order of lipids, and the 1080 cm(-1)/(1130 cm(-1) + 1060 cm(-1)) peak ratio, which represents the C-C skeleton vibration and trans-gauche conformation order of lipids, were investigated. The influence of keratin on the lipid peaks at 2850 cm(-1) and 2880 cm(-1) was excluded by the developed mathematical algorithm. The results show that the trans-conformation and lateral packing order of the intercellular lipids reach their maximum value in the SC at 20-40% of its depth and then decrease towards the stratum granulosum. These results show that at a depth of 20-40% (normally corresponding to a depth of 4-8 μm) the SC exhibits the most ordered lipids and therefore the highest skin barrier function. The lateral packing of lipids is more disordered on the surface and in the deeper parts of the SC, which may be associated with a reduced skin barrier function.