This paper describes basic principles and techniques involved in designing waterproof breathability fabrics. Breathable fabrics are available in a large variety, which can be categorized as — closely woven fabrics, microporous membranes and coating, hydrophilic membranes and coating, combination of microporous and hydrophilic membranes and coating, use of retroreflective microbeads, smart breathable fabrics and fabric based on biomimetics. Basic principles and mechanisms of water vapor transmission solely depend on the type of breathable fabrics. The formulation and application of microporous and hydrophilic membranes and coatings have been well researched in different fields of application. Smart breathable fabric and fabric based on biomimetics, which are of recent origin, are also showing their potential. The technology is continuously evolving in the areas of a cost-effective manufacturing process, improving material formulation to enhance the film's properties, and controlling pore sizes and their distributions, developing improved monolithic film and coating materials for a variety of applications. Method of incorporation of membrane, coating techniques, fabric substrate, lining material and above all the garment construction are also undergoing changes and play vital role in designing breathable garments.
This article describes engineering design of waterproof breathability fabrics specifically designed for leisure, medial uses and survival clothing. In many applications, breathable fabrics not only satisfy water-vapor permeability but also a number of other functional characteristics. Garment design, cut and fit, design of seam, constituent of multilayer structure and various forms of ventilation system are often modified depending on the functional requirement. In the comparative evaluation of several breathable fabrics, it is often very difficult to suggest the product which performs best. The conditions of application and corresponding requirements imposed on the product are quite different depending on the end use.
This paper reports an experimental investigation into the effect of laundering on seam tensile properties with the variation of stitch density, linear density of sewing threads and composition of base material. Tensile properties such as initial modulus, secant modulus, seam strength, strain at fracture and work up to fracture increase with stitch and linear density of sewing threads. The impact of coarser yarn is greater on seam properties of polyester-cotton fabric than cotton fabric. The tensile properties except seam strain are reduced due to laundering. Reduction in initial modulus and secant modulus due to laundering is higher for polyester-cotton fabric whereas decrease in seam strength, seam efficiency and strain at break is greater for coarser sewing thread.
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