Considering a growing demand for medicinal/cosmetic products with natural actives, this study focuses on the low-energy nanoemulsions (LE-NEs) prepared via the Phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature as potential carriers for natural oil. Four different red raspberry seed oils (ROs) were tested, as follows: cold-pressed vs. CO 2extracted, organic vs. non-organic, refined vs. unrefined. The oil phase was optimized with Tocopheryl acetate and Isostearyl isostearate, while water phase was adjusted with either glycerol or an antioxidant hydro-glycolic extract. This study has used a combined approach to formulation development, employing both conventional methods (pseudo-ternary phase diagram − PTPD, electrical conductivity, particle size measurements, microscopical analysis, and rheological measurements) and the methods novel to this area, such as textural analysis and Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectroscopy has detected fine differences in chemical composition among ROs, and it detected the interactions within nanoemulsions. It was shown that the cold-pressed, unrefined, organic grade oil (RO2) with 6.62% saturated fatty acids and 92.25% unsaturated fatty acids, was optimal for the LE-NEs. Textural analysis confirmed the existence of cubic gel-like phase as a crucial step in the formation of stable RO2-loaded LE-NEs, with droplets in the narrow nano-range (125 to 135 nm; PDI � 0.1). The DPPH test in methanol and ABTS in aqueous medium have revealed a synergistic free radical scavenging effect between lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidants in LE-NEs. The nanoemulsion carrier has improved the biological effect of raw materials on HeLa cervical adenocarcinoma cells, while exhibiting good safety profile, as confirmed on MRC-5 normal
This study focuses on the development of biocompatible oil-in-water (O/W) nanoemulsions based on polyglycerol esters, as promising carriers for natural actives: red raspberry seed oil—RO and hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry—RE and French oak—FE. Nanoemulsions were obtained via phase inversion composition (PIC) method at room temperature by dilution of microemulsion phase, confirmed by visual appearance, percentage of transmittance, microscopic, rheological and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) investigations. The results have shown that the basic RO-loaded formulation could be further enriched with hydro-glycolic fruit extracts from red raspberry or French oak, while keeping a semi-transparent appearance due to the fine droplet size (Z-ave: 50 to 70 nm, PDI value ≤ 0.1). The highest antioxidant activity (~92% inhibition of the DPPH radical) was achieved in the formulation containing both lipophilic (RO) and hydrophilic antioxidants (FE), due to their synergistic effect. The nanoemulsion carrier significantly increased the selective cytotoxic effect of RO towards malignant melanoma (Fem-X) cells, compared to normal human keratinocytes (HaCaT). In vivo study on human volunteers showed satisfactory safety profiles and significant improvement in skin hydration during 2 h after application for all nanoemulsions. Therefore, polyglycerol ester-based nanoemulsions can be promoted as effective carriers for red raspberry seed oil and/or hydro-glycolic fruit extracts in topical formulations intended for skin protection and hydration.
Due to the lack of skin irritation and skin barrier impairment along with the marked hydration effect, it could be said that the in-vestigated actives incorporated into alkyl polyglucoside emulsi-fier-stabilized creams may be safely applied as ingredients for "tailor-made" cosmetic moisturizers intended for normal and dry skin care, whereas olive oil squalene could be used for the treatment of irritated or sensitive skin as well. [Projekat Ministarstva nauke Republike Srbije, br. TR34031]
In this study several essential oils (EOs): basil - BA, lemon balm - LB and
oregano - OR were incorporated into nanoemulsions (NEs) as prospective
carriers for natural and sensitive bioactives. NEs were prepared via the
phase inversion composition (PIC) method, which is an energy-efficient cold
process. Physicochemical stability of NEs was confirmed by particle size
distribution analysis, electrical conductivity and pH value measurements, as
well as by optical microscopy observations. The type of EO and the
surfactant and oil mix concentration were found to be crucial factors
governing the NE properties and stability. Raman spectra of the EOs
confirmed main active ingredients and provided detection of interactions
with the nanocarrier, which is a novel application of this technique. The
antioxidant activity towards DPPH radical in methanol was
concentration-dependent with a similar trend for individual oils and
oil-loaded NEs (OR> LB> BA). However, the ABTS test in an aqueous medium
revealed notable change in the order of activity after EO nanonisation at
higher EO concentrations. Overall, it was found that OR-NE was the most
effective and stable system, since OR acted as a co-stabiliser in the NE
formulation, and its remarkably high antioxidant activity was successfully
preserved during 6 months of storage.
During the formulation of liposome-containing products different problems can occur and the selection of a suitable carrier remains the greatest challenge. To estimate feasibility of a novel alkyl polyglucoside surfactant (hydroxystearyl alcohol and hydroxystearyl glucoside) as an emulsifier for cosmetics with liposome-encapsulated plant stem cells, we performed a two-phase study. In the first, the pre-formulation phase, the emulsifier's critical micelle concentration (CMC) and liposome-encapsulated active-emulsifier interactions were determined. The second phase was carried out to develop and characterize a cosmetic emulsion suitable to serve as a carrier for liposomes. The investigated emulsifier, with the obtained CMC value of 0.0085 wt.%, could be classified as liposome-friendly and can be used to develop stable and aesthetically acceptable cosmetics or even prospective pharmaceutical liposome-containing emulsions.
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