No abstract

Dandruff is a common but complex disorder with three major contributing factors: (1) individual predisposition, (2) scalp sebum and (3) Malassezia yeast colonization. To obtain further insights into the role of sebum in dandruff biogenesis, we analyzed scalp lipid species in a cohort of ten dandruff-free (control) and ten dandruff-afflicted volunteers by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Lipid peroxidation levels and biochemical markers of oxidative stress were also assessed. Squalene, a major sebum component, was significantly more peroxidized in dandruff-affected scalps, resulting in significantly higher ratios of squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH)/squalene. This was observed when comparing dandruff-affected zones of dandruff subjects to both their non-affected zones and control subjects. In addition, other biomarkers such as malondialdehyde indicated that oxidative stress levels were raised on dandruff scalps. Surprisingly, differences regarding either free or bound fatty acids were fairly rare and minor. Certain novel findings, especially squalene peroxidation levels, were then confirmed in a validation cohort of 24 dandruff-affected subjects, by comparing dandruff-affected and non-dandruff zones from the same individuals. As SQOOH can induce both keratinocyte inflammatory responses and hyperproliferation in vitro, we hypothesized that increased SQOOH could be considered as a new etiological dandruff factor via its ability to impair scalp barrier function. Our results also indicated that Malassezia could be a major source of squalene peroxidation on the scalp.Electronic supplementary materialThe online version of this article (doi:10.1007/s00403-016-1623-1) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Most of the skin barrier function is attributable to the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, which is composed of flattened, anucleated cells called corneocytes surrounded by a lipid-enriched lamellar matrix. The composition of the stratum corneum is directly dependent on the underlying granular keratinocytes, which are the last living cells in the stratified epidermis. Many components present in the intercorneocyte matrix are delivered by the underlying granular keratinocytes through a secretion process dependent on lysosome-related organelles called lamellar bodies. Because of the importance of lamellar bodies in the maintenance of the epidermal barrier, the mechanisms regulating their biogenesis must be better understood. In this study, we show that the Rab11a GTPase is highly expressed in terminally differentiated keratinocytes, where it is partly associated with lamellar bodies. Rab11a silencing in three-dimensional in vitro reconstructed human epidermis induces a barrier defect, a decrease in the amount of lipid found in the stratum corneum, a reduction in lamellar body density and secretion areas in granular keratinocytes, and the mis-sorting of lamellar body cargoes being driven to the lysosomal degradation pathway. Our results highlight the importance of Rab11a-dependent regulation of lamellar body biogenesis in keratinocytes and consequently on epidermal barrier homeostasis.

Background: Generally considered as a major risk factor for various respiratory diseases, air pollution can also have a significant impact on the skin. To date, there is a plethora of cosmetics products with "anti-pollution" claims. However, these claims have not been fully substantiated with robust scientific evidence and currently there is no standardized method in place for validating the anti-pollution efficacy of cosmetics products. Materials and Methods: This article discusses an innovative Controlled Pollution Exposure System (CPES) which allows quantified administration of pollutants on the skin and analysis of their direct impact. Using CPES, human subjects were exposed to ambient dust and ozone and sebum were sampled and analyzed for biomarkers. Results: Following exposure of human subjects' skin to either ambient dust(100-450 μg/cm 3) or ozone(100-1000 ppb), analysis of sebum revealed a significant decrease in squalene concentration, and significant increases in squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde concentration. Conclusion: The findings demonstrate cutaneous oxidative stress induced by ambient dust and ozone. The findings also demonstrate the efficacy of CPES to accurately measure the direct effect of controlled gaseous and particulate pollutants on human skin and indicate that squalene, squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde may serve as potent biomarkers for evaluating potential anti-pollution claims of cosmetics products.

Background Skin damage arising from pollutants in gaseous and particulate matter forms is mainly mediated by oxidative stress. The pollutants directly or indirectly generate free radicals on and in the skin, leading, for example, to MMP up‐regulation and damage of collagen fibers. Antioxidants and chelators are used in anti‐pollution cosmetics to reduce the harmful effects of free radical generation. Materials and Methods We investigated the efficacy of two antioxidants and one chelator in an anti‐pollution cigarette smoke model. Free radical generation was measured directly after UV and cigarette smoke exposure ex vivo on pig skin (slaughterhouse waste), by use of Electron Spin Resonance (ESR). Effects of cigarette smoke were compared to those of Urban Dust (NIST‐standard). ESR was also used to measure the copper chelation activity of the test products. Following cigarette smoke application in vivo, two markers of lipid peroxidation malondialdehyde (MDA), and squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH), were measured from swab solutions taken from the smoke‐exposed skin sites. Results EDTA generated no effect and the non‐chelator antioxidant Tocopherol only small antioxidant effects after exposed to cigarette smoke ex vivo as well as in vivo. Only the hydrophilic phenylethanoid H1 showed significant effects. A clear reduction of free radicals ex vivo and further a significant reduction of in vivo lipid peroxide formation was measured. Conclusion The cigarette smoke model is an ideal method for in vivo assessment of anti‐pollution efficacy of topical products with close relation to the real situation of subjects exposed to urban pollution. Further research is required to better understand the role of chelators in anti‐pollution cosmetics.