Lipids of the stratum corneum are implicated in cohesion and desquamation of the stratum corneum as well as in the maintenance of normal barrier function. Evidence linking the intercellular lipids to such processes has mainly been derived from studies on acquired or inherited diseases of lipid metabolism manifesting abnormalities in the structure and the function of the stratum corneum. We have studied the composition of stratum corneum lipids in clinically normal individuals with typical xerosis or ‘winter dry skin’ in order to establish if the lipid composition differs from that of normal individuals, showing no signs of xerosis. The amount of total stratum corneum lipids was not related to xerosis (22.0 ± 1.8 μg/cm2 for normal skin, and 26.3 ± 2.9 μg/cm2 for severe xerosis), and no correlation was evident between polar lipids, cholesterol sulfate (2.8 ± 0.5% for normal skin, and 1.6 ± 0.2% for severe xerosis), or ceramides types I-VI, and dry skin. It therefore appears that dramatic changes in stratum corneum lipids are not detectable in normal ‘winter dry’ skin. However, a decreased proportion of neutral lipids (sterol esters, triglycerides), coupled to increased amounts of free fatty acids were found associated to the severity of dry skin. Apart from a decline in the sebaceous function and in esterases activity, winter dry skin does not appear to be associated to dramatic changes in polar stratum corneum lipids.
The fascinating topic of skin barrier continues to engage researchers from diverse disciplines both in academia and industry. Much of the information on the basic biology of barrier formation, its ontogeny as well as repair and homeostasis comes from studies on animal models. A smaller number of human studies have validated the usefulness of animal models, while highlighting some essential differences. We submit that the human skin barrier is unique in several ways, as much due to our adaptive ability as our control over the environment (macro and micro) that none of the other species have exerted. The human skin is not only exposed to the greatest variations of environment due to our phenomenal mobility but also to the largest number of xenobiotics, both chemical and microbial, resulting from human activity. In this overview, we attempt to evaluate the interdependent relation of skin barriers to environmental stressors hoping to raise interest in some of the lesser known or neglected aspects of human skin barriers as they relate to skin health and dysfunctions.
Background: Although effective moisturizers can improve xerotic skin changes immediately, their effects are only transient, because the materials applied to the stratum corneum (SC) are easily shed from the skin surface by the daily desquamation process. However, there are a few lines of clinical as well as experimental evidence suggesting that, once application of effective moisturizers is repeated daily, they may produce persistent effects without being influenced by the desquamation of the skin surface. If we can expect such pharmacological effects by simple repeated applications of moisturizers on the skin surface, it will provide a great motivation for the introduction of corneotherapy into the treatment of xerotic skin problems. Objective: This study was designed not only to confirm the feasibility of corneotherapy but to propose a practical method to assess such long-lasting effects of moisturizers by using biophysical methods. Methods: We conducted applications of various moisturizers twice daily to different areas of the flexor surface of the forearms for the initial 5 days of the first week. Thereafter, we performed biophysical measurements of the SC of these areas in the second week, namely 3, 5 and 7 days after their last applications. Results: Daily repeated applications of moisturizers did not induce any change in the water barrier function of the SC or in the size of desquamating corneocytes, a parameter for turnover rate of the SC. However, they substantially increased high-frequency conductance, a parameter for the hydration state of the skin surface, for several days in both normal individuals and patients with atopic xerosis, although the lasting effects were shorter in the latter. The obtained data enabled us to rank the efficacy of moisturizers either according to the duration of the lasting effects or the magnitude of an increase in the hydration levels of the SC. Conclusion: The present results confirmed the feasibility of corneotherapy, in which even simple application of moisturizers targeted at the SC can produce unexpected persistent clinical effects after their repeated treatments. The method described in this study constitutes a practical assay system to evaluate the efficacy of topical agents used for dry skin problems objectively and quantitatively.
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