Wave set-up on coral reefs. 1. Set-up and wave-generated flow on an idealised two dimensional horizontal reef

Gourlay, Michael R.

doi:10.1016/0378-3839(96)00008-7

Cited by 175 publications

(101 citation statements)

References 11 publications

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“…The increased mixing and flushing of the reef flat with sea-level rise may help to dilute material delivered to the inner reef flat from the adjacent land, but it might also result in greater transport of terrestrial sediment onto the fore reef. The model results presented here, along with the observations made by Ogston et al (2004), Storlazzi and Jaffe (2008), and Lowe et al (2009) and modeled by Gourlay (1996), Hearn (1999), and Hearn and Atkinson (2000), show the effect of sea level on the magnitude of currents, driven both by wind and by wave-breaking, on coral reef flats.…”

Section: Currentssupporting

confidence: 76%

Numerical modeling of the impact of sea-level rise on fringing coral reef hydrodynamics and sediment transport

et al. 2011

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Most climate projections suggest that sea level may rise on the order of 0.5-1.0 m by 2100; it is not clear, however, how fluid flow and sediment dynamics on exposed fringing reefs might change in response to this rapid sea-level rise. Coupled hydrodynamic and sedimenttransport numerical modeling is consistent with recent published results that suggest that an increase in water depth on the order of 0.5-1.0 m on a 1-2 m deep exposed fringing reef flat would result in larger significant wave heights and setup, further elevating water depths on the reef flat. Larger waves would generate higher near-bed shear stresses, which, in turn, would result in an increase in both the size and the quantity of sediment that can be resuspended from the seabed or eroded from adjacent coastal plain deposits. Greater wave-and wind-driven currents would develop with increasing water depth, increasing the alongshore and offshore flux of water and sediment from the inner reef flat to the outer reef flat and fore reef where coral growth is typically greatest. Sediment residence time on the fringing reef flat was modeled to decrease exponentially with increasing sea-level rise as the magnitude of sea-level rise approached the mean water depth over the reef flat. The model results presented here suggest that a 0.5-1.0 m rise in sea level will likely increase coastal erosion, mixing and circulation, the amount of sediment resuspended, and the duration of high turbidity on exposed reef flats, resulting in decreased light availability for photosynthesis, increased sediment-induced stress on the reef ecosystem, and potentially affecting a number of other ecological processes.

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Section: Currentssupporting

confidence: 76%

Numerical modeling of the impact of sea-level rise on fringing coral reef hydrodynamics and sediment transport

et al. 2011

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“…The near-edge wave-induced currents over the reef are generated mainly by the wave breaking (27) on the reef offshore face and the reef top (e.g., Monismith 2007). Using this concept, wave radiation stress gradients can be connected with the forces acting on the current to calculate the wave-driven current over the reef (e.g., Symonds et al 1995;Gourlay 1996;Hearn 1999;Tartinville and Rancher 2000;Symonds and Black 2001;Gourlay and Colleter 2005;Monismith 2007). Similar to coral reefs, typical coastal wetlands have steep scarps of various heights, and wave breaking and current generation inland of a marsh edge have been reported in the literature (e.g., Tonelli et al 2010;Truong et al 2014).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Field Study of How Wind Waves and Currents May Contribute to the Deterioration of Saltmarsh Fringe

Karimpour

Chen

Twilley

2015

Estuaries and Coasts

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Deltaic landscapes, such as the Mississippi River Delta, are sites of extensive conversion of wetlands to open water, where increased fetch may contribute to erosion of marsh edges, increasing wetland loss. A field experiment conducted during a storm passage tested this process through the observations of wave orbital and current velocities in the fringe zone of a deteriorating saltmarsh in Terrebonne Bay, Louisiana. Incident waves seaward of the marsh edge and wave orbital and current velocities immediate landward of the marsh edge were measured. Through a dimensional analysis, it shows that the current and orbital velocities in the marsh fringe were controlled by the incident waves, inundation depth, submergence ratio, and vegetation density. Similarly, it is shown that the longshore currents in the inundated saltmarsh fringe depended on the local wave-induced momentum flux, vegetation submergence, and vegetation density in the fringe zone. The cross-shore current showed the presence of a return flow in the lower region of the velocity profile. A high correlation between the current direction and the local flow-wave energy ratio as well as the vegetation submergence and density is found, indicating the important role of surface waves in the fringe flow landward of an inundated wetland under storm conditions. The field observations shed light on the potential ecological consequences of increased wave activities in coastal saltmarsh wetlands owing to subsidence, sea level rise, limited sediment supply, increases in wind fetch, and storm intensity.

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“…The accuracy of this simple estimation of the storm surge and associated inundation is limited by the lack of basic data, but it still helps mayors to plan construction outside the estimated submersion zone. A more accurate estimation would include estimating the cyclonic waves within the lagoon, which can increase or decrease the wave amplitude (Gourlay, 1996).…”

Section: Cyclonic Surgementioning

confidence: 99%

Major natural hazards in a tropical volcanic island: A review for Mayotte Island, Comoros archipelago, Indian Ocean

Audru¹,

Bitri²,

Desprats³

et al. 2010

Engineering Geology

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Wave set-up on coral reefs. 1. Set-up and wave-generated flow on an idealised two dimensional horizontal reef

Cited by 175 publications

References 11 publications

Numerical modeling of the impact of sea-level rise on fringing coral reef hydrodynamics and sediment transport

Numerical modeling of the impact of sea-level rise on fringing coral reef hydrodynamics and sediment transport

A Field Study of How Wind Waves and Currents May Contribute to the Deterioration of Saltmarsh Fringe

Major natural hazards in a tropical volcanic island: A review for Mayotte Island, Comoros archipelago, Indian Ocean

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