Abstract. The impact of breaking wave on shoreline can be lessen or prevented by placing some kind of protection before the wave to reduce the speed of the wave before attacking the shoreline. Such protection can be in the form of a breakwater which is a structure designed to help reducing the wave intensity in whether in inshore waters or relatively shallow water. Thus, a mathematical model of Pressure Impulse, P is used to model the effect of waves exerted on a wall of a breakwater. A two-dimensional field of equations is derived for P which are applicable in three regions of breakwater problems by expressing this in terms of eigenfunctions that satisfy the boundary conditions apart from that the impact region and the matching of the three regions (before the breakwater, under the breakwater and after the breakwater). As in Cooker, we found that the equations of P in region 1 and region 3 are same as Cooker only that equation in region 3 has to include a secular term.
IntroductionThis paper discusses a mathematical model of the large brief pressure brought by breaking waves against the coastal structures. Of the vast open ocean, waves are among the most familiar features often seen and heard. Waves roll into the beach at any given time and they are of all sizes and shapes. Thus, if they are not stopped by anything, waves can travel across entire ocean basins causing erosions and as well as overtopping that can damage our land properties. The most familiar ocean waves are called wind-driven waves which are caused by the wind. Others are called tsunamis and tidal waves caused by underwater disturbances and the gravitational pull respectively.In order to prevent the beach erosions and land properties from being damaged by ocean waves, protections such as seawalls and breakwaters were built and many researchers and experimenters were driven to study the wave impact on coastal structures. Rouville et al. [1] were amongst the earliest but produced very little data while Bagnold and his colleagues [2] who formed a committee did a laboratory test to investigate the nature of the shock pressure exerted on the vertical wall. The researches in this area then evolved theoretically and experimentally, both at model and full scale and generally confirmed Bagnold's observations. Munireddy and Neelamani [3] have modified Goda's