Wave control on the rhythmic development of a wide estuary mouth sandbank: A process-based modelling study

Guérin, Thomas; Bertin, Xavier; Chaumillon, Éric

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2016.06.013

Cited by 9 publications

(9 citation statements)

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“…Note that in case of deposition, this implementation neglects the contribution of the bed load to the sediment flux toward the substrate, which would physically more realistic (Hoey & Ferguson, 1994; Parker, 1991). Nonetheless, this approach has been successfully applied in modeling studies in the riverine(Williams et al, 2016), estuarine (Guerin et al, 2016; Van der Wegen et al, 2011), and coastal (Huisman et al, 2018; Reniers et al, 2013) environment.…”

Section: Model Formulationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Horizontal and Vertical Sediment Sorting in Tidal Sand Waves: Modeling the Finite‐Amplitude Stage

et al. 2020

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The bed of coastal seas displays a large number of rhythmic bed features, of which sand waves are relevant to study from an engineering perspective. Sediments tend to be well sorted over these bed forms, which is so far poorly understood in terms of modeling of finite-amplitude sand waves. Using Delft3D, we employ bed stratigraphy and consider four different grain-size classes, which are normally distributed on the phi scale. The standard deviation (sortedness) is then varied, whereas the geometric mean grain size is kept constant. The results show that, typically, the crests of sand waves are coarser than the troughs. Residual flow causes net sedimentation on the leeside of the crest, and, consequently, the general sorting pattern is distorted. Since larger grains experience a larger settling velocity, they are deposited on the upper lee slope, whereas the smaller grains are found on the lower lee slope. Due to sand wave migration, also, the internal structure of the sand wave is revealed, which follows the same sedimentation pattern as the lee slope surface. These results qualitatively agree with sorting patterns observed offshore. The sorting processes lead to longer wavelengths and lower wave heights, as a function of standard deviation. This relates to the dampening effect of suspended sediment transport for fine grains. Finally, it appears that the modeled wave heights fall in the same range as observations in the North Sea. These results are valuable for, for example, predicting the morphological response after engineering activities and determining suitable aggregates for sand extraction.

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Section: Model Formulationmentioning

confidence: 99%

Horizontal and Vertical Sediment Sorting in Tidal Sand Waves: Modeling the Finite‐Amplitude Stage

et al. 2020

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“…Historical bathymetric datasets have already been used to constrain the morphological evolution of the study area (Fig. 1c, Bertin et al, 2004Chaumillon, 2005, 2006;Chaumillon et al, 2008a;Allard et al, 2010;Guérin et al, 2016). They include two large-scale surveys carried out in 1824 (Beautemps-Beaupré survey, lead line) and 1960 (SHOM Mannevy survey, acoustic mono-beam sounder), as well as two other surveys focused on the Marennes-Oléron bay and carried out in 1882 (Germain, Renaud and Laporte survey, lead line) and in 2003 (DDE17 survey, acoustic mono-beam sounder; Allard et al, 2010).…”

Section: Bathymetrymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In coastal areas, such markers can be obtained from repeated bathymetric surveys for the last 2 centuries at best (eg. Higgins et al, 2007;Chaumillon et al, 2008a;Guérin et al, 2016). Chronobathymetric sequences are complementary with traditional radiometric dating methods.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Chronobathymetric sequences have been successfully used to document the morphodynamical evolution of many coastal environments within historical times, including estuaries and estuarine bays (e.g. Bertin and Chaumillon, 2006;Blott et al, 2006;Jaffe et al, 2007;Allard et al, 2010;Tatekoji et al, 2016), micro-to mesotidal lagoons (Allard et al, 2009;Sarretta et al, 2010), tidal inlets (Jaffe et al, 1997;Bertin et al, 2004;Miner et al, 2007;Dallas and Barnard, 2011;Azevedo et al, 2016) and tidal bars of the inner (Billy et al, 2012) and outer estuary (Kapsimalis et al, 2004;Chaumillon et al, 2008a;Guérin et al, 2016), as well as other submarine features like pockmark fields (Brothers et al, 2011) or volcanoes (Watts et al, 2015). Chronobathymetric sequences have proved useful for disentangling the respective contribution of autocyclic (Blott et al, 2006) and allogenic forcing factors on the coasts, including the impact of climate variability (Billy et al, 2012) and human activities Blott et al, 2006;Jaffe et al, 2007;Azevedo et al, 2016;Xie et al, 2017).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Spatially explicit bathymetric reconstruction from lead line depth soundings of the late 17th century

Poirier

Sauzeau

Chaumillon

et al. 2020

Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science

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Sequences of repeated bathymetric surveys through time have been successfully used to document the morphodynamical evolution of coastal environments within historical times. Most chronobathymetric sequences have a restricted temporal coverage, as surveys rarely date back earlier than the 19th century. The aim of this study is to explore the potential of older lead line depth measurements as a reliable source of bathymetric data. A late 17th century marine chart of the Pertuis Charentais (France) was used as a test case. High-resolution scans of the chart sheets were retrieved from a public online digital library. A rare manuscript contemporary to the chart was obtained from the French National Archives, in order to constrain the methodology used to acquire depth measurements. A spatially explicit bathymetry covering 1500 km 2 was reconstructed from the interpolation of about 4600 georeferenced depth soundings. Vertical error was estimated by assuming the equivalence of depth values between the late 17th century and the recent (1960) bathymetries above subtidal rocks outcropping on the seafloor. Documentary data indicated that the chart author did not acquire depth measurements on purpose but instead collected data taken by local sailors and coasting pilots over an unknown period of time, probably ranging from a few years to a few decades. The large vertical error estimated to ± 4.5 m mainly resulted from the lack of tide correction. Bathymetric difference maps could not be computed, but despite these weaknesses, the large-scale sediment infilling of the area and the long-term evolution of an estuarine sandbank could be documented, in agreement with previous works. Beyond its utility for local studies, this article provides insights into the processing of depth measurements acquired long before modern hydrography surveys, and demonstrates that such old marine charts deserve consideration, provided conditions are met for their critical assessment.

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“…estuarine (Van der Wegen et al, 2011;Guerin et al, 2016) and coastal (Reniers et al, 2013;Huisman et al, 2018) environment.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

The feedbacks among tidal sand waves, benthic organisms and sediment sorting processes

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Wave control on the rhythmic development of a wide estuary mouth sandbank: A process-based modelling study

Cited by 9 publications

References 46 publications

Horizontal and Vertical Sediment Sorting in Tidal Sand Waves: Modeling the Finite‐Amplitude Stage

Horizontal and Vertical Sediment Sorting in Tidal Sand Waves: Modeling the Finite‐Amplitude Stage

Spatially explicit bathymetric reconstruction from lead line depth soundings of the late 17th century

The feedbacks among tidal sand waves, benthic organisms and sediment sorting processes

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