Using Skin Models to Assess the Effects of a Protection Cream on Skin Barrier Function

Abstract

Background: There is a basic necessity to understand the mechanisms of the protective effects of emulsions. This would promote the development of protective cosmetics and therefore improve the prevention and treatment of occupational skin diseases. However, for such studies, no reliable skin model is available. Objective: An in vitro skin model test was developed to evaluate the protective mechanism of cosmetic ingredients. Methods: The efficacy of three products was assessed by an in vivo test (Repetitive Occlusive Irritation Test) and then 3-dimensional skin model tests were carried out. Results: In vivo test results demonstrate that the best protection against sodium dodecyl sulphate is offered by a multiple emulsion. In the case of a skin model test, sodium dodecyl sulphate led to cell damage, an increase in pro-inflammatory markers and some barrier lipids. The multiple emulsion increased the content of skin lipids, without inducing irritation or cell death. Conclusion: Skin models react similarly to sodium dodecyl sulphate compared to human skin and therefore they are suitable to study barrier repair after sodium dodecyl sulphate damage. It is likely that the superior protective effect of the multiple emulsion in vivo is based on the increased amount of skin barrier lipids.

Effects of a ceramide‐containing water‐in‐oil ointment on skin barrier function and allergen penetration in an IL‐31 treated 3D model of the disrupted skin barrier

“…Therefore, in the present study we investigated the effects of a ceramide‐containing water‐in‐oil ointment on the physical skin barrier structure and function in a recently developed IL‐31 induced human 3D organotypic in vitro model of the disrupted skin barrier. Zur Mühlen and colleagues demonstrated that 3D skin models are a suitable tool to study barrier repair mechanisms and to gain insight into the protective and regenerative effects of cosmetic formulations . In order to obtain an AD‐like phenotype in our skin models, we treated these with IL‐31, as recently described .…”

“…Zur Mühlen and colleagues demonstrated that 3D skin models are a suitable tool to study barrier repair mechanisms and to gain insight into the protective and regenerative effects of cosmetic formulations. [27] In order to obtain an AD-like phenotype in our skin models, we treated these with IL-31, as recently described. [9] We demonstrated that IL-31 weakens the formation of the lipid envelope and disturbs the differentiation process of keratinocytes by downregulating the expression of several structural proteins, including filaggrin.…”

Ceramide analogue 14S24 selectively recovers perturbed human skin barrier

“…We have compared the barrier‐repair properties of 14S24 with the skin lipids using the Franz diffusion cell, full‐thickness porcine skin extracted by chloroform/methanol 2 : 1 and TH as a model permeant 14 . Recently, EpiDerm‐200‐HCF cultures exposed to SLS were studied as in vitro models to assess the effects of a protective cream on the skin barrier function 21 …”

“…14 Recently, EpiDerm-200-HCF cultures exposed to SLS were studied as in vitro models to assess the effects of a protective cream on the skin barrier function. 21 In this study, we used ex vivo human skin combined with noninvasive methods and the penetration of a model compound into the dermis assessed by cutaneous microdialysis. The skin was disrupted by the solvent-induced lipid extraction, tape stripping and detergent treatment.…”

Evaluation of barrier creams – introduction and comparison of 3 in vivo methods

“…Currently, several in vivo and in vitro methods are in existence for the evaluation of BC. A commonly used in vivo method is the repetitive irritation test (3); in addition, diffusion cells and in vitro skin models have been used (4, 5). Furthermore, the penetration of various dyes after pretreatment with a BC was measured by skin reflectance measurements, chromameter or laser‐induced breakdown spectroscopy (6, 7, 8).…”