Three-Dimensional Hydrodynamics Associated with a Solitary Wave Traveling over an Alongshore Variable Shallow Shelf

Building Resilient Coastal Communities: The NHERI Experimental Facility for Surge, Wave, and Tsunami Hazards

“…The HWRL EF assisted with LiDAR (Laser Scanner) to provide highly resolved bathymetric conditions for interpretation of hydrodynamic conditions and for numerical modeling. Researchers used optical measurement techniques (i.e., Particle Tracking and Particle Image Velocimetry-PTV and PIV) to capture the flow around the two islands (Lynett et al, 2019), and used novel techniques to measure the run-up around the island (Kaihatu et al, 2018;Han et al, 2020). These experiments generated a detailed data set for the calibration of an open source code based on the extended Boussinesq equations for interactive and real-time wave simulation (Lynett, 2016).…”

Long-Wave Penetration through a Laterally Periodic Continental Shelf

“…(1) p,q (t) are all zero and therefore B (1) is zero for all t. Therefore B (1) may be omitted from (8) as well. From the recurrence relations established in (8) and (10) we can determine all of the degrees of freedom. After the degrees of freedom are determined, the vertical velocity at the water surface is now calculated:…”

“…We set a time step at ∆t = 0.16 and the spatial resolutions in the x− and y−directions are ∆x = 0.37 and ∆y = 0.10, respectively. M = 5 terms are included in the perturpation series, and the modes in the x− and y−directions are truncated to N x = 2 13 and N y = 2 10 , respectively. Figure 8 shows snapshots of the plan view of the water-surface displacement along with the corresponding bathymetry.…”

“…The continental shelf possessed a triangular shape which broadens in the nearshore direction. This bathymetry was modified by Lynett et al [10] to contain a conical island located near the front of the triangular bathymetry. From these experiments, it was observed that the solitary wave would separate into four different bores.…”