Abstract:The transformation of long waves—such as tsunamis and storm surges—evolving over a continental shelf is investigated. We approach this problem numerically using a pseudo-spectral method for a higher-order Euler formulation. Solitary waves and undular bores are considered as models for the long waves. The bathymetry possesses a periodic ridge-valley configuration in the alongshore direction which facilitates a means by which we may observe the effects of refraction, diffraction, focusing, and shoaling. In this … Show more
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