There's something fishy about that sushi: how Japan interprets the global sushi boom

Abstract

Since the 1990s sushi has become a global product with a transnational market. Hybridised and localised sushi like California Rolls and Spider Rolls are now even being reverse-imported to Japan as 'genuine American sushi'. This article examines some attempts to re-nationalise global sushi, both from the Japanese state and from the vernacular media. We argue that, while popular reporting on the 'overseas sushi boom' generates a sense of national pride over 'them' eating 'our' food, the state's position is a more strategic one. It operates with a clear motive of increasing sales of Japanese food products overseas, mobilising the image of authenticity for this specific purpose. Both state and popular expressions of culinary nationalism claim Japanese ownership of culture not only in its 'authentic' forms but in its multiple, creative, hybrid and fusion forms. By examining Japanese responses to foreigners consuming sushi, we hope to provide some insights into the relationship between food, national culture, authenticity and globalisation. A further objective is to understand Japan's culinary nationalism within the larger context of the 'soft power' and 'cultural diplomacy' discourse.

Traditional Sushi for Modern Consumers: A Comparison Between Sushi Consumption Behavior in Japan and Norway

“…Despite the appreciation some consumers may show toward the traditional Japanese way of preparing sushi, the cultural distance of such exotic food should not be greater than would allow a potentially successful marketing strategy outside of Japan (Azar, 2011). The latter may have happened to such an extent to most sushi sold outside of Japa that it is estimated that part of the Japanese population may consider it too different from traditional sushi (Sakamoto & Allen, 2011). However, the global increase in sushi availability has also brought many Japanese chefs to foreign countries where they can ensure that the basic principles of this traditional food are guarded, while adaptations occur based on each culture sushi is adapted to.…”

“…An example of this could be observed in the perception of pre-packed sushi by experienced Japanese consumers. However, if traditional products of another ethnicity are introduced in a new market, some innovation may be needed to ensure that they are acceptable to the new population, as shown by the success of sushi outside Japan (Sakamoto & Allen, 2011).…”

Factors influencing sushi meal as representative of non-traditional meal: Consumption among Czech consumers

“…Among sushi consumers there is a well-accepted assumption that sushi meal is not a cheap meal, but it is very often perceived as some kind of glamour and prestige (DONLEY, 1995;SAKAMOTO & ALLEN, 2011 ADAMS and co-workers (1990) made the calculation that an average salmon fi sh fi llet weighs 2.27 kg, and that one salmon fi sh can provide 1000 maki sushi salmon pieces. The average price of 1 kg of salmon is around 6 Euros, meaning that the value of salmon included in one piece of sushi is around 0.014 Euros (FRANK & BJORNDAL, 2011).…”

“…On the other side, sushi meal is very often perceived as some kind of glamour and prestige (SAKAMOTO & ALLEN, 2011).…”

Dodgy dumplings and lethal liver: risk, food terrorism, and Sino–Japanese relations

“…Imports of tainted Chinese food play into Japan's culinary nationalism, in which Japanese food (kokusan) is elevated above foreign food in terms of quality, health, and safety (Takeda 2008;Sakamoto and Allen 2011). 4 These notions pervade Japanese discourse on food, and are behind the Japanese government's 2005 Shokuiku (food education) campaign.…”