1983
DOI: 10.1177/0887302x8300200108
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The Rise and Fall of It All: The Hemlines and Hiplines of the 1920s

Abstract: That the hemline of women's daytime costume became increasingly elevated during the 1920s, and that this costume often evidenced stylistic emphasis around the anatomical hipline, are two traditional concepts promulgated by most costume historians. In the current investigation, 1,978 women's daytime fashion illustrations, published within Good Housekeeping between February 1920 and December 1929, were measured to test the accuracy of these often communicated beliefs. While the data did substantiate that hemline… Show more

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Cited by 14 publications
(7 citation statements)
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“…The ideal silhouette of the 1920s was tubular, flat, and “boyish” as opposed to the womanly silhouette of the 1910s. Skirts remained ankle length at first, but by 1927, they were at their highest for the decade and showing the knee (Richards, 1983). Women usually wore one-piece, looser-fitting, sleeveless, or long-sleeved dresses.…”
Section: Prescriptive and Proscriptive Dress Advice For Plus-sized Womenmentioning
confidence: 99%
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“…The ideal silhouette of the 1920s was tubular, flat, and “boyish” as opposed to the womanly silhouette of the 1910s. Skirts remained ankle length at first, but by 1927, they were at their highest for the decade and showing the knee (Richards, 1983). Women usually wore one-piece, looser-fitting, sleeveless, or long-sleeved dresses.…”
Section: Prescriptive and Proscriptive Dress Advice For Plus-sized Womenmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Silhouettes changed from a barrel shape in 1919 to an oblong shape in the early 1920s; in the late 1920s, silhouettes were wedge shaped with narrow hemlines (Tortora & Eubank, 2010). Throughout the 1920s, dress silhouettes included a lower, horizontal waist hip line created through manipulation of fabric in pleats, tucks, smocking, and belts or sashes (Richards, 1983).…”
Section: Prescriptive and Proscriptive Dress Advice For Plus-sized Womenmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Recent researchers have continued to study fashion change as represented in fashion publications (Behling & Dickey, 1980;Belleau, 1987;Carman, 1966;Creekmore & Pedersen, 1979;Lowe, 1984;Lowe & Lowe, 1982, 1984, 1985Richards, 1983-84; Robenstine & Kelley, 1981;Turnbaugh, 1979). From this group of authors Vogue was the most used fashion magazine, followed by Harper's Bazaar and Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine.…”
mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Richardson and Kroeber (1940) and Weeden (1977) investigated trends in styl istic changes or dress. Richards (1983-84) tested traditional assumptions about styl istic changes. lowe (1984) To begin measuring the number of visual parts I first looked at "visual boundaries" (Arnheim, 1954) within a clothed body form.…”
Section: Discussionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Aesthetic Research Richardson and Kroeber (1940) (Richards, 1983-84). Lowe (1984) uti I ized visual analysis of dress to evaluate aesthetic rules of proportion.…”
Section: Limitationsmentioning
confidence: 99%