“The New Costumes of Odd Sizes”

Abstract

By 1916 over 13 million women or 12.7% of the total U.S. population was considered overweight or “stout.” In the 1920s, the term “stout.” indicated an (often matronly appearance) with generous bust, back and hip curves that did not fit with fashion s demands of the ideal stylish figure. Research related to ready-to-wear fashions for plus sized women in the 20th century is almost non-existent. The purpose of this study was to explore available ready-to-wear fashions for the plus sized woman during the years 1920-1929. To explore this topic, a historical method approach was utilized using primary sources that included The New York Times, Vogue, and Good Housekeeping. The results of this study identified prescriptive and proscriptive advice regarding appropriate clothing styles and merchandising trends marketed to plus sized women.

Supporting Acts: Patents for Undergarments for Stout Women, 1891–1956

“…When searching for the term "stout woman," 1891 was the first and 1956 the last appearance of this phrase in the patents available through Google Patents at the time of data collection. The term "stout" was the most commonly used phrase for plus-sized women during this period, and it was the only term used for systematic searching, allowing for consistency in the data collection process (Keist & Marcketti, 2013). Terms for women larger than "average" or "slender" styles are numerous, and there is no common term during any decade.…”

“…Already by the first part of the 20th century and into later decades, women strived for a slender silhouette in order to be fashionable. Companies such as Lane Bryant and others advertised the slenderizing effects of their garments and urged their customers to appear slender (Keist & Marcketti, 2013). Corsets aided the appearance of slimness and were viewed as a must for the stout.…”

“…Businesses and manufacturers would miss out on increased profit by ignoring these women. By the mid-1910s, 12.7% of the total U.S. population was overweight; by the 1970s, over 30% of women had a body mass index over 30; and today, over 60% of women are considered overweight or obese (Cutler, Glaeser, & Shapiro, 2003;Keist & Marcketti, 2013; National Institute of Diabetes and Digestive and Kidney Diseases, 2018). This group has often faced personal and societal discrimination, as well as being marginalized by researchers who continue to focus on the slim ideal.…”

A methodology for facial measurement towards the establishment of ready-to-wear hijab sizing

“…Many studies have been conducted in the area of sizing systems for apparel (Ashdown, 2007; Faust and Carrier, 2010; Gupta and Zakaria, 2014; Keist and Marcketti, 2013; Salusso et al , 2006), helmet designs (Gross and Bradtmiller, 1999) and respirator masks (Yong-Mei et al , 2011). However, to date, no reported study has been conducted on the establishment of a sizing system for RTW hijabs.…”