Abstract:Purpose
The conversion of fabric into a garment involves many interactions such as the selection of suitable sewing thread, optimization of sewing parameters, ease of conversion of fabric into the garment and actual performance of the sewn fabric during wear of the garment. The adjustment of all sewing parameters is necessary to ensure quality. The purpose of this paper is to define the parameters that affect seam quality comprehensively.
Design/methodology/approach
This study primarily focuses on the studie… Show more
“…To assess the effect of sewing thread on seam quality, 100% polyester corespun and 100% mercerised cotton sewing threads were selected. The main reason for choosing them was that the sewing threads used in the garment industry are generally produced from cotton and polyester fibres [30]. Especially polyester corespun sewing threads dominate the market due to their very high yarn strength property [21] and are suitable for the production of normal clothing products thanks to their versatile structure [10].…”
Section: Sewing Threadmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The sewing needle, one of the seam forming elements, is essential to ensure good seam quality. Especially choosing the right needle size and needle point is one of the most important parameters in the production of garments' joints [11,14,30,38]. As the existing literature proves the significant effect of needle size on seam quality, the thicker needles decrease the seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation, whereas increase the force required to pierce the needle through the fabric [12,15].…”
The role of fabric properties in sewing performance and seam quality is essential, therefore, it is crucial to understand the effect of diferent parameters on traditional fabrics’ sewability properties. This study aimed to evaluate the seam quality of traditional fabrics produced from silk, cotton and linen fibres and their blends in terms of seam strength, seam efficiency and fabric sewability. The samples were sewn using two different sewing needle size (75 Nm and 90 Nm) and sewing thread (100% mercerised cotton and 100% polyester corespun). Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that sewing thread and fabric type had significant effect on seam strength and seam efficiency. The samples sewn with polyester corespun sewing thread had higher seam strength than other. The sewing needle significantly affected the needle penetration force values and the silk fabric had lowest sewability values both in warp and weft direction.
“…To assess the effect of sewing thread on seam quality, 100% polyester corespun and 100% mercerised cotton sewing threads were selected. The main reason for choosing them was that the sewing threads used in the garment industry are generally produced from cotton and polyester fibres [30]. Especially polyester corespun sewing threads dominate the market due to their very high yarn strength property [21] and are suitable for the production of normal clothing products thanks to their versatile structure [10].…”
Section: Sewing Threadmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The sewing needle, one of the seam forming elements, is essential to ensure good seam quality. Especially choosing the right needle size and needle point is one of the most important parameters in the production of garments' joints [11,14,30,38]. As the existing literature proves the significant effect of needle size on seam quality, the thicker needles decrease the seam strength, seam efficiency and seam elongation, whereas increase the force required to pierce the needle through the fabric [12,15].…”
The role of fabric properties in sewing performance and seam quality is essential, therefore, it is crucial to understand the effect of diferent parameters on traditional fabrics’ sewability properties. This study aimed to evaluate the seam quality of traditional fabrics produced from silk, cotton and linen fibres and their blends in terms of seam strength, seam efficiency and fabric sewability. The samples were sewn using two different sewing needle size (75 Nm and 90 Nm) and sewing thread (100% mercerised cotton and 100% polyester corespun). Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that sewing thread and fabric type had significant effect on seam strength and seam efficiency. The samples sewn with polyester corespun sewing thread had higher seam strength than other. The sewing needle significantly affected the needle penetration force values and the silk fabric had lowest sewability values both in warp and weft direction.
“…Even if the fabric is still intact, a seam failure might render the garment unfit for regular wear [20]. https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2021.34 Indeed, many studies have been carried out to determine seam strength based on various parameters [21][22][23][24][25][26][27]. However, some studies showed a linear relationship between seam strength and stitch density, as all used a very low stitch density of 7 to 13 stitches per inch [28][29][30].…”
Seam strength is critical in achieving the proper and adequate quality seam, which eventually determines the overall quality of any garment. The target of this research was to investigate exactly how different stitch density affected seam strength for different stitch types. Commercially available, 100% cotton plain weave structured woven fabric with mass per unit area of 270 g/m2 was used in this analysis. Two different stitch types, such as lock stitch (ISO#301) and chain stitch (ISO#401), along with four stitch densities like 8, 10, 12 and 14 per inch were utilized. The seam strength of the prepared samples was determined using a tensile strength tester followed by the ASTM D1683 standard procedure. The impact of independent variables on superimposed seam strength was statistically analyzed using a regression correlation with the help of SPSS software to construct a regression equation to predict seam strength before the manufacturing process. The study found a non-linear relationship between seam strength and stitch density. When the stitch density is too low, the seam strength is shown low as well, because the cloth cannot be held under tensile load. In a very compact woven fabric, structural jamming or intrinsic puckering occurs if it is too high. As a result, the best stitch density should be chosen to achieve the best seam strength. This study will help the manufacturers choose a suitable SPI for lock and chain stitches from polynomial regression equations before the sewing production of cotton woven fabric, which was not predicted by any researcher before. Therefore, the optimum stitch density can be chosen using regression equations to get the best result for seam strength.
“…Sewing damage has been studied extensively since the 1950s. [1][2][3][4][5][6] Attention to this problem has also been paid in manufacturing industrial textiles and composites. [7][8][9] Dorkin and Chamberlain have pointed out that unsatisfactory seams are most likely due to either yam slippage or yarn breakage.…”
mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Most of the studies have focused on the influence of sewing parameters, such as needle resistance force, needle thickness, sewing thread linear density, fabric structures, and fabric type on the seam strength and damage to the yarns in the fabric. 1,[3][4][5][6][10][11][12][13] Unfortunately, little has been reported about controlling sewing damage in the form of yarn splitting due to insertion of the sewing needle tip that pushes aside the neighboring yarns, forming cracks perpendicular to the sewing line in the fabric, as shown in Figure 1. On the other hand, fabrics woven with continuous filament yarns such as cuprammonium fabrics become more and more popular because they have unique properties such as good handling, air permeability, antistatic, and other good characteristics.…”
Fabrics with weaves of low interlacing density and smooth yarns such as continuous cuprammonium filaments are often susceptible to sewing damage of cracks perpendicular to the sewing line, seriously influencing the aesthetics of the finished garment. To understand how the important factors such as yarn modulus, yarn bending stiffness, sewing needle radius, yarn-on yarn-friction, fabric counts and fabric weaves act on the crack length of such a fabric, a micromechanical model is proposed, and the experimental results are compared with the theoretical prediction. Single yarn pull-out tests and single yarn axial compression tests are performed to estimate yarn-on-yarn friction and yarn bending stiffness, respectively. The model indicates that the sewing crack length is positively proportional to the yarn tensile modulus, yarn bending stiffness and the needle radius and is negatively proportional to the fabric count and the inter-yarn friction. The model predicted crack lengths are within the range of the experimental results in warp direction while the predicted value is substantially larger than the observed crack lengths in weft direction due to the high compressibility of the weft yarn, which decreased yarn tension, bending stiffness and increased yarn cover power. For a given fabric, increasing yarn-on-yarn friction and raising yarn compressibility is an effective way to control the crack lengths.
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