Systematic Collection of Beach Data

Berg, Dennis W.

doi:10.9753/icce.v11.17

Cited by 8 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 1 publication

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“…Additional, but less comprehensive records of beach slope, sediment parameters, longshore current, breaker depth and meteorological variables also exist. Around the Point wave data were collected at five locations numbered M4 to M8 ( Figure 4) using methods outlined by Berg (1968), although wave height estimates were checked using a hand-held graduated staff. Heights up to 1.0 m are correct to +/-15 per cent.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point, northern ireland

Carter¹

1980

Earth Surf. Process.

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SUMMARYMagilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point, northern ireland

Carter¹

1980

Earth Surf. Process.

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“…Much of the information used here was reported in Bruno and Gable (1976) . The wave data included both LEO (Berg, 1968;Bruno and Hiipakka, 1972) and gage data from two wave pressure sensors installed at the site. A chart describing the various types of data collected and the survey dates from 1974 to 1977 is presented as Figure 5.…”

Section: Data Collection and Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

“…LEO Data Collection and Analysis . Figure 6 shows three sites where twice daily surf data were collected using procedures developed under the CERC LEO program (Bruno and Hiipakka, 1973;Berg, 1968).…”

Section: Data Collection and Analysismentioning

confidence: 99%

Longshore sand transport study at Channel Islands Harbor, California / R.O. Bruno ... [et al.].

Bruno¹

1981

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This report is published to provide coastal engineers with an updated method for prediction of sand transport along beaches Clittoral drift). The prediction equation is calibrated with data from a 2-year study of longshore sand transport at Channel Islands Harbor, California. The work was carried out under the beach behavior and restoration program of the U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC) .

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“…in Denmark, Germany and some places in the U.S.A. (2, 3, 7, 9, 17, 21, 22, 24, 69). A great number deal with seasonal changes (13,14,18).…”

Section: Idementioning

confidence: 99%

Some Comments on Coastal Engineering

O’Brien

1972

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The Canadian Organizing Committee, the Vancouver Executive Committee and the National Research Council of Canada have done a superb job in planning this conference and in carrying out the enormous amount of detail necessary for its realization. On behalf of the Coastal Engineering Research Council, the other participating organizations, and all of the attendees I thank most heartily all who participated in this work. I am personally most grateful to those representatives of the Canadian Committee who made the final selection of papers. I should explain at this point that a small papers Committee is appointed for each of these conferences to review the summaries submitted by the authors - but this screening is intended only to appraise their appropriateness for a coastal engineering audience - and to eliminate those few papers which are promotional "blurbs". It has not been a technical review such as is made for "refereed" technical and scientific journals. The number of papers submitted for this Conference passing this simple review far exceeded the reasonable limits of the program - and for a brief period the Papers Committee faced the new and distasteful task of selection among papers acceptable under past standards. However, the problem was handled by the Canadian Committee - applying a formula which seemed equitable and reasonable. I trust that those affected concur in this judgment.

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Systematic Collection of Beach Data

Cited by 8 publications

References 1 publication

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point, northern ireland

Longshore variations in nearshore wave processes at magilligan point, northern ireland

Longshore sand transport study at Channel Islands Harbor, California / R.O. Bruno ... [et al.].

Some Comments on Coastal Engineering

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