Swash zone sediment transport, step dynamics and morphological response on a gravel beach

Masselink, Gerd; Russell, Paul; Blenkinsopp, Chris; Turner, Ian L.

doi:10.1016/j.margeo.2010.03.005

Cited by 74 publications

(43 citation statements)

References 21 publications

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“…During the experiment, Houjiangwan bay was dominated by swells with mean wave heights of 0.33 m and mean peak periods of 11.0 s. The wave steepness ranged from 0.007 to 0.016 with a mean value of 0.0115 (Figure 4d). Other than the di erence in the sediment size (D =0.328 mm), the study had similar conditions as Masselink et al [59]. In this paper, the wave steepness accounted for 66.45% of total coe cients in the U1 and it is a signi cant factor in the other canonical variate.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 68%

Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Liu

2016

Open Geosciences

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Swash zone topography rapidly responds to the surf zone waves. Understanding how sandy beaches respond to wave action is critical for beach erosion research, and plays a critical role in the design and maintenance of shore protection structures. The main objectives of this study were to detect the relationship between high-frequency beachface oscillations and surf zone wave characteristics under plunging breakers by using Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA). The study site is located in Houjiangwan Bay, eastern Guangdong. Topography data were sampled at 6 min intervals. The wave characteristic parameters were calculated by spectrum method. During the eld work, the beach showed a re ective state and plunging breakers controlled the surf zone. The beach cusp topography was destructed gradually. The analysis provides 4 canonical correlation processes between the beachface variations and surf zone waves, which explained 95.28% of the overall variation in the data. The result shows wave steepness, the irregularity factor and spectral broadness factor had strong impacts on the topography. The wave steepness was the most important factor for beach pro le variations. The results of the present study indicate that data-driven statistical analysis, such as CCA, is useful for analyzing pro le response to waves if there is strong correlation between the two variables (beach pro les and wave).

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 68%

Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Liu

2016

Open Geosciences

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“…The berm formation is driven by a net onshore flow (Austin and Masselink 2005;Masselink et al 2010) the gravel is carried upslope from offshore/subtidal zone and is deposited onto the upper runup limit (upper intertidal zone). XBeach is unable to reproduce beach recovery conditions through the construction of a berm.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Application of Xbeach to Model Storm Response on a Macrotidal Gravel Barrier

Alegría-Arzaburu

Williams

Masselink

2011

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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The process-based XBeach numerical model has been used to simulate storm-induced morphological response on a macrotidal gravel barrier located in southwest UK. Using well-established parameterisation to define all relevant hydrodynamic, groundwater and sediment processes, the model was applied in 1D mode to simulate observed storminduced beach profile responses. Investigations showed that the morphological response of the beach was best modelled using a total drag coefficient, CD, of 0.007, and a hydraulic conductivity, K, of 0.05ms -1 . Results obtained from simulations with and without beach groundwater highlighted the need to account for groundwater effects when modelling morphological changes on gravel beaches. The model has been found unable of reproducing the formation of a berm, thus, beach recovery conditions cannot be modelled. This is mainly attributed to the fact that XBeach models long waves rather than individual waves, and thus it cannot simulate individual swash events that contribute to onshore sediment transport and berm accretion. However, the model is shown to provide good estimates of post-storm gravel beach/barrier profiles, and to define the threshold for overwash occurrence. Both attributes have utility in a range of practical coastal engineering and management applications.

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“…At Milford-on-Sea, the highest beach variability occurred at the supra-tidal level (2-3m MSL). This is attributed to strong swash movements associated with incident wave groupiness and waves breaking on or at close proximity to the shoreline Masselink et al, 2010). The surf similarity parameter at Milford-on-Sea calculated on the mean inter-tidal profile gradient with mean wave steepness is 1.4, showing plunging to surging waves near the waterline.…”

Section: Bulk Statistical Analysismentioning

confidence: 97%

“…Even though the understanding of beach morphodynamic evolution is essential for both developing predictive models and effective beach management, research on coarse grain beaches is scarce, with existing studies either limited to geological time scales (Kirk, 1980;Carter and Orford, 1984;Carter, 1986) or short-term scales (Jennings and Shulmeister, 2002;Pontee et al, 2004;Ivamy and Kench, 2006;Masselink et al 2010;Alegria-Arzaburu et al, 2010). Besides, these studies were done on either pure gravel or mixed sand-gravel beaches.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Analysis of Cross-Shore Profile Evolution of a Sand and a Composite Sand-Gravel Beaches

Karunarathna

Horrillo-Caraballo

Ranasinghe³

et al. 2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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In this paper, cross-shore morphodynamic evolution of a sand and sand-gravel composite beach, are compared and contrasted used historic surveys of beach profiles. The differential behavior of cross-shore morphodynamics at a range of time scales covering event-scale dynamics up to intra-annual scale variability are investigated and discussed. The application of equilibrium concept to both beach types is explored through Dean's equilibrium profile and Vellinga's beach erosion profile. Variability of cross-shore profile dynamics are quantified and discussed through bulk statistical analysis. Multi-scale morphodynamic trends are determined using Empirical Orthogonal Eigenfunction (EOF) analysis. The above analysis enables to recognise failure mechanism of each beach type during a storm.

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Swash zone sediment transport, step dynamics and morphological response on a gravel beach

Cited by 74 publications

References 21 publications

Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Relationship between high-frequency sediment-level oscillations in the swash zone and inner surf zone wave characteristics under calm wave conditions

Application of Xbeach to Model Storm Response on a Macrotidal Gravel Barrier

An Analysis of Cross-Shore Profile Evolution of a Sand and a Composite Sand-Gravel Beaches

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